This photo was taken from Conjunto Escultórico de Asunción.
Updated December 2023.
The Mother of Cities
Paraguay is the heart of South America (geographically and culturally). It has the best-preserved Jesuit ruins in all of Latin America and incredible parks where one can find pink armadillos.
Its capital is Asunción, which also serves as the largest city. Within South America, it is one of the oldest cities, and its nickname stems from the fact that it is the longest continually inhabiated area in the Río de la Plata Basin.
The official name of the city is "Nuestra Señora de la Asunción" (Our Lady of the Assumption), based on the fort built there. Historically, when colonizer Juan de Salazar y Espinoza stopped at a bay in a left bank to resupply his ships along the Paraguay River. He appreciated the hospitality of the indigenous, so he built a fort in August of 1537 (what a great gift, am I right?). He named it Nuestra Señora Santa María de la Asunción (Our Lady Saint Mary of the Assumption) because the Roman Catholic Church celebrates the Feast of the Assumption on August 15.
After Buenos Aires was destroyed in 1542 by the indigenous, Spaniards fled to Asunción and served as the hub of the Spanish colonial province until 1731, when José de Antequera y Castro led one of the first rebellions against Spanish colonial rule. While it failed, the unrest led to Paraguay receiving independence in 1811 when rebels forced the governor to surrender.
Post-independence, there has been a lot of turmoil within Paraguay’s history with two wars with its neighbors (the War of the Triple Alliance (1864-1870) being one of the deadliest and bloodliest inter-state wars within Latin American history), a few attempted coup d’états, a 35-year military dictatorship under Alfredo Stroessner (1954-1989), and the Tragedy of Ycua Bolaños, a fire in a supermarket in 2004 that claimed the lives of 400+ people as the lack of fire safety measures and blocked exits trapped many inside. It's considered one of the deadliest incidents in Paraguay’s modern history.
Its capital is Asunción, which also serves as the largest city. Within South America, it is one of the oldest cities, and its nickname stems from the fact that it is the longest continually inhabiated area in the Río de la Plata Basin.
The official name of the city is "Nuestra Señora de la Asunción" (Our Lady of the Assumption), based on the fort built there. Historically, when colonizer Juan de Salazar y Espinoza stopped at a bay in a left bank to resupply his ships along the Paraguay River. He appreciated the hospitality of the indigenous, so he built a fort in August of 1537 (what a great gift, am I right?). He named it Nuestra Señora Santa María de la Asunción (Our Lady Saint Mary of the Assumption) because the Roman Catholic Church celebrates the Feast of the Assumption on August 15.
After Buenos Aires was destroyed in 1542 by the indigenous, Spaniards fled to Asunción and served as the hub of the Spanish colonial province until 1731, when José de Antequera y Castro led one of the first rebellions against Spanish colonial rule. While it failed, the unrest led to Paraguay receiving independence in 1811 when rebels forced the governor to surrender.
Post-independence, there has been a lot of turmoil within Paraguay’s history with two wars with its neighbors (the War of the Triple Alliance (1864-1870) being one of the deadliest and bloodliest inter-state wars within Latin American history), a few attempted coup d’états, a 35-year military dictatorship under Alfredo Stroessner (1954-1989), and the Tragedy of Ycua Bolaños, a fire in a supermarket in 2004 that claimed the lives of 400+ people as the lack of fire safety measures and blocked exits trapped many inside. It's considered one of the deadliest incidents in Paraguay’s modern history.
Overview
- 8:00 - 8:20 AM: Palacio de López - presidential palace
- 8:30 - 9:25 AM: Cabildo - cultural center
- 9:30 - 9:55 AM: Asunción Metropolitan Cathedral - church
- 10:00 - 10:55 AM: Casa de la Independencia - historic house and museum
- 11:00 - 11:20 AM: National Pantheon of Heroes - monument and mausoleum
- 11:30 - 12:30 PM: Andrés Barbero Ethnographic Museum - indigenous people museum
- 12:30 - 1:30 PM: Lunch
- 2:00 - 3:45 PM: Museo de las Memorias Dictadura y Derechos Humanos - musuem about Stroessner's dictatorship
- 3:15 - 4:30 PM: Mural Walk
- 4:30 - 5:30 PM: Costanera - waterfront and Bay of Asunción
- 30-minutes before Sunset - Sunset: Cerro Lambaré - monument and viewpoint
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Tips
Getting To/From the Airport
Silvio Pettirossi International Airport (ASU) is the closest international airport to the capital. The easiest way is to call an Uber or take a taxi for about $10-15 USD.
Getting Around the City
Within the historic center (which is where one will probably spend the most time), walking is the best way to get around.
I tried to understand how to ride the buses, but found the system to be quite confusing as there aren't regular timetables or routes provided through Google Maps. If one wants to leave the city center, Ubers are relatively inexpensive and a possible option.
I tried to understand how to ride the buses, but found the system to be quite confusing as there aren't regular timetables or routes provided through Google Maps. If one wants to leave the city center, Ubers are relatively inexpensive and a possible option.
Water
Tap water is safe to drink in Asunción as their filtration systems are up-to-date.
Language
Spanish is the main language spoken throughout Paraguay, and very few people speak English. Having a basic knowledge of Spanish is necessary.
Currency
In Paraguay, the main currency is Paraguayan guaraní; however, I never needed to use cash, since everywhere I went accepted card.
Lodging
While I usually don't recommend lodging options, I would highly recommend Asuncion Palace Hotel. Located in the center of the city and in a historic building, this hotel provides
1-Day Plan
Unlike other popular South American cities, Asunción lacks the same tourist infrastructure nor does it boast any attraction that are breathtaking or extraordinary. However, Paraguay offers a unique experience in their history and museum infrastructure. Most notably, Paraguayans also don't stay up late as many museums open at 8 AM.
8:00 - 8:20 AM: Palacio de López
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Neoclassical palace that serves as the seat of government and workplace of the Paraguayan president. It was built by Carlos Antonio López, the leader of Paraguay from 1841 to 1862, to serve as a home for his son.
One should also come at night to see it lit up! If one walks around the other side of the building past the Plaza de los Desaparecidos, one will see the letters of Asunción, called the Conjunto Escultórico de Asunción. |
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8:30 - 9:25 AM: Cabildo - Cultural Center of the Republic (Free - Closed on Saturdays and Sundays)
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Former senate building that has turned into a Paraguyan cultural heritage center. Inside, one can find shamanic feather crowns, initiation ceremony costumes, and artifacts from other indigenous groups. They will have an artist's work on display and the upstairs has different exhibits. An interesting one is about the different immigrant groups. Note that all the signage in the museum is in Spanish, but they do have English brochures and the museum workers are very friendly and happy to provide historical context, even using voice-to-speak through Google translate to convey information. |
9:30 - 9:55 AM: Asunción Metropolitan Cathedral
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Historic and religious landmark with beautiful architecture, serving as the seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Asunción. Next door is the Museo Monseñor Juan Sinforiano Bogarin, which showcases the history of Paraguay through a Christians lens and have Baroque-Guaraní sacred art there. |
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10:00 - 10:55 AM: Casa de la Independencia (Free - Closed on Sundays)
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Colonial house that was the site of Paraguay’s declaration of independence. Today, it’s a museum dispensing history of Paraguayan independence.
The house once belonged to a wealthy family, consisting of 5 rooms and a large hall with a patio in the center. One can view where the desk and the oratory is located, the bedroom, the dining room, and portraits of famous heroes of Independence. Other artifacts include period documents, utensils, and original furniture from the early 1800s. |
11:00 - 11:20 AM: National Pantheon of Heroes
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Historical monument serving as a chapel and mausoleum for Paraguay’s national heroes, fallen soldiers, and Paraguay’s first president. When historic events happen in Asunción, people head here with flags before the building to celebrate the event. One can also view the changing of the guard several times here. |
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11:30 AM - 12:30 PM: Andrés Barbero Ethnographic Museum
Ethnographic and archaeological museum with incredible collections showing the culture of indigenous tribes in Paraguay that was funded by the philanthropist and scholar Dr. Andrés Barbero.
12:30 AM - 1:30 PM: Lunch
2:00 - 3:00 PM: Museo de las Memorias Dictadura y Derechos Humanos
The Museum of Memories: Dictatorship and Human Rights, this museum discusses the violation of human rights during Stroessner dictatorships and the 20th century dark times. Through paintings, images, and historical objects, one can learn about the repressive regime. Note that all the information is in Spanish. The space itself is a former detention center where opponents to the military dictatorship were imprisoned and tortured.
3:15 - 4:30 PM: Mural Walk
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In an attempt to revitalize the historic town center, Paraguay is filled with street art, thanks to efforts of many street artists. In 2016, there was also the LatidoAmericano event, a festival for urban art that led to 44 murals to be created by 35 artists to continue beautifying the town and show Latin American unity (the first one was held in 2012 in Miraflores, Lima, Peru). One can walk along the streets and admire the murals or follow the plan laid out for the ones created during the LatidoAmericano event by following this map to see some incredible artwork throughout the city. |
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4:30 - 5:30 PM: Costanera
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Walk along the Costanera, a waterfront area along the Bay of Asunción with parks, recreational space, and views of the city.
Since Paraguay is the only land-locked South American country, La Playa de la Costnera along the Bay of Asunción is the only beach in the city. This Bay is also where the Spaniards first arrived to Paraguay, where Paraguayan warships anchored during the War of the Triple Alliance, and where European refugees landed when fleeing World War II. |
Take an Uber to Cerro Lambaré (20 minute ride)
Sunset: Cerro Lambaré
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A hill with one of the best views of the city at night, but it is considered a dangerous place to be at night, so one should be prepared and have a plan to head back to the city. I'd recommend taking a taxi and asking them to wait for a little bit extra.
Interestingly, the erected monument was created by Paraguay's last dictator, Stroessner, who commissioned Spanish architect and sculptor, Juan de Ávalos y Taborda to design a monument to honor Paraguay's most important historical figures at the peak of the hill. The sculpture, completed in 1982, is built out of concrete blocks with an angel at the top. Paraguyan national heroes, including former presidents and patriarchs, (which had included Stroessner, but was removed in 1991) are between each of the five supporting legs. Beneath the centerpiece is a statue of Chief Lambare, the leader of the Guaraní tribe who fought on this mountain to fend off the Spanish colonizers. |
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Museums
- Museo Memoria de la Ciudad: Museum that provides the history of Asunción and every stage of development. One can also have a view of the presidential palace from the museum terrace. It also has an incredible library one can visit.
- Museo Ferroviario Estación Central (National Railway Museum): A former Victorian-style central railroad station that now houses the National Rail Museum. This station had once been the first to be constructed in the Americas and one can see equipment and machinery.
- Museo del Barro (Free): Museum with collection of contemporary art, Paraguayan folk art, and indigenous art as well as artifacts throughout history. It is a great way to learn about Paraguay’s artistic heritage.
- Museo de Arte Sacro (PYG 7000): Small museum of sacred art created during the colonial period with an impressive collection of Baroque-Guaraní art.
Other Activities
- Parque de la Salud: Health park with refuge from the heat, dense trees, and jogging paths
- Botanical Garden and Zoo of Asunción (Jardin Botánico y Zoológico de Asunción): Over 64 species of fauna endemic to South America thrive in this space. The space was the former estate of former president, Carlos Antonio López (he has the Presidential Palace named after him), before German scientists, Freibig began the space. There's a nursery, the botanical garden, zoo, natural history museum (in López's former estate), and suprisingly, a golf course
- Ñu Guazú Park: A large green space with sports facilities and a free bicycle renting service to check out the park. Interestingly, there is also Taiwan Plaza, a Taiwanese-style garden to celebrate diplomatic relations between the two countries, especially since Paraguay is one of 15 countries that recognizes Taiwan as a sovereign nation.
Loma San Jeronimo: This is supposed a hip neighborhood that many travel sites have recommended. Its known for the colorful tiled stairs and vibrant houses, but I found the neighborhood to not be the most exciting. While there are a few murals here, I was underwhelmed by this area.
Restaurants
Copenhagen is known for sustainability with the following restaurants are known for their passion for the eco-sourced food and sustainable agricultural practices.
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Other Resources
- Simon's Paraguay - English teacher's insights into Paraguay
