Updated December 2023.
The City of Fury
La Ciudad de la Furia is a popular nickname given to the city by the national rock band Soda Stereo. Besides the number of protests and rebellions that give the city its “fury”, there is also a wild charm to Buenos Aires, the locals call “el quilombo” or “the disaster/mess” due to the traffic, the protests, the frenetic energy at soccer games, or the passion the people have.
Literally translated, “Buenos Aires” means “good air” or “fair winds”. This name dates back to Spanish conquistadors who named a hill in Sardinia called Buen Ayre where the nearby swampland could no longer be smelled. A statue of Virgin Mary was constructed on the hill and a new saint, Santa Maria del Buen Ayre was created. One of these devotees, a Spanish sailor named Pedro de Mendoza established the first port at Buenos Aires and gave it its name since it was also far enough south that the port was free from malaria—“mal aire”.
Its other nickname is the “Paris of the South”, but I hate comparing cities to other cities, as each one has something unique to offer. Its architectural resemblance to the French capital, especially in the Recoleta neighborhood.
Today, Buenos Aires boasts a cultural renaissance with a focus on arts, music, and literature.
Literally translated, “Buenos Aires” means “good air” or “fair winds”. This name dates back to Spanish conquistadors who named a hill in Sardinia called Buen Ayre where the nearby swampland could no longer be smelled. A statue of Virgin Mary was constructed on the hill and a new saint, Santa Maria del Buen Ayre was created. One of these devotees, a Spanish sailor named Pedro de Mendoza established the first port at Buenos Aires and gave it its name since it was also far enough south that the port was free from malaria—“mal aire”.
Its other nickname is the “Paris of the South”, but I hate comparing cities to other cities, as each one has something unique to offer. Its architectural resemblance to the French capital, especially in the Recoleta neighborhood.
Today, Buenos Aires boasts a cultural renaissance with a focus on arts, music, and literature.
Overview
- 8:00 - 8:15 AM: Plaza de Mayo - city center with presidential palace
- 8:15 - 8:30 AM: Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral - church with San Martin mausoleum
- 9:00 - 9:30 AM: El Ateneo Grand Splendid - famous bookstore
- 10:00 - 11:00 AM: Cementerio de la Recoleta - renowned cemetery
- 11:30 AM - 12:30 PM: Jardín Japonés - tranquil Japanese gardens
- 12:30 - 1:30 PM: Lunch
- 1:30 - 2:30 PM: Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays - botanical gardens
- 3:00 - 4:00 PM: Chinatown - cultural enclave
- 4:30 - 6:00 PM: Palermo - hip neighborhood
- 6:00 - 7:30 PM: Dinner
- 8:00 - 9:30 PM: Palacio Barolo - building with panoramic views
- 10:00 - 11:30 PM: Tango Show - dance performances
Click the star to add the map to your Google Maps! To view it, simply open Google Maps, navigate to the Menu, choose “Your Places,” click "Maps", and voila, the map should be added.
Tips
Getting Into/Out of the City
The best way to enter the city from Ezeiza Buenos Aires airport (international airport) is through Taxi or a Rideshare app.
- Rideshare App (15000 ARS): Uber and Cabify both work and are easy to use.
- Taxi: Readily available right outside the arrival hall in a line, taxis are an easy way to get into the city but are known for scams, such as taking a “faster” route for an extra charge, drive very fast and dangerously, or even have the wrong taxi driver’s certificate. Most taxi drivers accept card payment but one should ask beforehand.
- Bus: Line 8 takes one from the airport to Plaza de Mayo or Congress. Tickets cost $0.72 and can take 1.5 – 2 hours to reach the city center.
Getting Around the City
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While there unfortunately isn’t good public transit into the city, within the city, there are some great options for buses, subways, or suburban train: Buy a contactless SUBE-card and add money to it within a metro station, kiosk, or train station. (880 ARS). Each ride costs 80 ARS. Note that to add money and to buy a card, one needs to have Argentinine pesos. |
SUBE Card
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SUBTE There are 6 metro lines (A, B, C, D, E, H) each with their respective color that crisscross the main city of Buenos Aires.
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BUS
Running practically 24/7, the bus network is incredible. For live tracking, one should download the “transit” app (transitapp.com). The important thing here is to wait in line at a bus stop and when boarding, tell the bus driver your destination. |
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Water
Tap water is safe to drink, although many people prefer the bottled water options.
Currency
The currency in Argentina is the Argentine peso. As of writing this, the devaluation of the peso has made some places increase their prices in response.
The only time one needs cash is to buy and replenish one's SUBE card. Everywhere else takes credit card!
The only time one needs cash is to buy and replenish one's SUBE card. Everywhere else takes credit card!
1-Day Plan
8:00 - 8:15 AM: Plaza de Mayo
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The main city center and foundational site of Buenos Aires named after the May Revolution of 1810 which marked the start of Argentine independence. Over the years, the largest demonstrations and protests in the country start here. Casa Rosada is in the east, the presidential palace of Argentina known for its pink color and the official residence of Argentina’s President. Near the center is the Pirámide de Mayo (May Pyramid) to commemorate the May Revolution of 1810. On the top is a bronze sculpture of the Sun of May, a national Argentine emblem.
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8:15 - 8:30 AM: Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral
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A neoclassical cathedral designed by Próspero Catelin with 12 beautiful columns to represent the 12 apostles of Christ and a frontispiece showing the encounter of Jacob and Joseph in Egypt to show the unity of Argentina. The Cathedral also houses the Mausoleum of General José de San Martin, the liberator of Argentina, and the Unknown Soldier, with a votive candle and an eternal flame remembering their contributions during the Wars of Independence. The location is where Pope Francis led mass before assuming office in the Vatican in 2013.
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9:00 - 9:30 AM: El Ateneo Grand Splendid
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Argentina is known for having the most bookstores per capita than any other country. Located in an old theater, the bookstore was named the most beautiful in the world in 2019 by National Geographic. One can peruse the shelves, take a picture next to a mock-up of the 9¾ platform from Harry Potter, or enjoy a snack on stage while listening to music.
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10:00 - 11:00 AM: Cementerio de la Recoleta
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The first public cemetery in Buenos Aires, it is also one of the most beautiful, with graves of notable people are laid out here, such as Eva Perón, the former First Lady of Argentina, presidents of Argentina, Nobel Prize winners, the founder of the Argentine Navy, and military commanders such as Julio Argentino Roca.
It was designed by French civil engineer, Próspero Catelin, who also designed the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral. Laid out like city-blocks, one can walk along all the mausoleums. It’s 14 acres long, contains 4,691 vaults with many of the tombs imported from Paris and Milan, and over 6,4000 statues, coffins, and crypts. Free guided tours in Spanish take place at 11 AM and 2 PM Tuesday through Friday, and at 11 AM and 3 PM on Saturdays and Sundays. |
Cementerio de la Recoleta
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Jardín Japonés
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11:30 AM - 12:30 PM: Jardín Japonés
The Japanese Gardens are a relaxing place, inaugurated in 1967 to greet the emperor of Japan, Akihito and his wife, Michiko, who happened to be visiting then and gifted by the vibrant Japanese community. There are beautiful winding paths, ponds with koi fish and water lilies, fountains, sculptures, bridges, and traditional plants like bonsai, bamboo, and cherry trees. One can also visit the tea house for a break or a nice lunch.
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12:30 - 1:30 PM: Lunch
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1:30 - 2:30 PM: Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays
The Botanical Gardens contain over 6,000 different species of trees and plants, beautiful statues, and a vegetable garden. There is a formal French park inspired by the one in Palace of Versailles, a Roman garden, and a new greenhouse.
Free guided tours in Spanish are provided at 10:30 AM and 3 PM on Saturdays and Sundays. |
Entrance to Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays
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3:00 - 4:00 PM: Chinatown (Barrio Chino)
Chinatown Arch
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Distinct neighborhood that is where the Chinese diaspora live. It boasts plenty of restaurants serving Chinese food, grocery stores with Asian products, and specialty shops like tea and herbal medicine. It’s a relatively new neighborhood built when mostly Taiwanese immigrants arrived here in the 1980s. The arch was gifted from the Chinese government in 2009, which has been contested since the Taiwanese population don’t like the presence of a gift from China. Street food is a popular, and one can wander around the stalls to try some food. |
4:30 - 6:00 PM: Palermo
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A hip neighborhood known for its nightlife, cobblestone roads, and culinary scene. There are lots of open-air markets and plenty of cafes and other dining options. It’s commonly divided into three sections:
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Pictures are all from Palermo Soho
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6:00 - 7:30 PM: Dinner
8:00 - 9:30 PM: Palacio Barolo
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Iconic building in Benous Aires that provides panoramic city views and has symbolic references to Dante Alighieri’s “Divine Comedy”. It was designed by Italian architect, Mario Palanti, and completed in 4 years in 1923. It is 22 stories high and 100 meters tall, each meter representing a “canto” from the book. There are 3 parts to the building, which represent the 3 sections of the epic poem: Hell, Purgatory, and Heaven. At the top, there is a lighthouse representing Dante’s journey to enlightenment and could be seen all the way in Montevideo across the Rio de la Plata. The light from the lighthouse is only turned on during guided night tours at 7 or 8 PM.
Otherwise, guided tours start at 10 AM and usually run every hour. I’d recommend booking online, but one can also go inside and book at the information desk. |
FUN FACT: Its twin tower is Palacio Salvo in Montevideo, Uruguay, designed by the same architect
10:00 - 11:30 PM: Tango Show
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Buenos Aires is considered the birthplace of tango with numerous venues with tango shows that are usually accompanied by dinner.
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NOTE: For tango shows, sometimes the best seats can be found if one has dinner with the performance and to arrive earlier.
Or if one wants to learn how to tango, there's plenty of venues. One of the more popular options is La Viruta, the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center is a place where one learns to tango. If one comes alone, a partner will be paired with you.
Museums
Most of the museums in Buenos Aires are free to visit
- MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires): Latin American Museum of Buenos Aires: Modern and contemporary Latin American art is displayed in here, which include works by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.
- Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo: Housed in a Beaux-Arts mansion based on the Palace of Versailles, the space now showcases artwork of famous artists such as El Greco, Manet, and Rodin.
- Museo Evita: Museum in a 1920s mansion dedicated to Evita Perón, Argentina’s most controversial first lady and wife to President Juan Domingo Perón with photos, books, posters, and clothing from 1940s.
- Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes: Fine arts museum with Argentine and international art including works by Goya, Rembrandt, and Van Gogh.
- MACBA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Buenos Aires): Contemporary art museum with Argentine and international artists.
- Museo Nacional de la Historia del Traje: National museum of costume history that shows a collection of costumes and accessories that reflect Argentina's history of fashion.
- MAMBA (Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires): Modern and avant-garde art of Argentina and international art.
- Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta: Inside a beautiful mansion that features Spanish art and decorative items from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.
- Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales: Natural history museum with palentology exhibits and exhibits on the diverse ecosystems of Argentina.
- Centro Cultural Kirchner: Cultural center with changing exhibits (concerts, theater, and visual arts) housed inside a former post office building.
- Planetario Galileo Galilei: Science and astronomy center known for its dome and planetarium shows.
Other Activities
La Boca Walking Tour: A vibrant neighborhood in Buenos Aires, there are some popular places to visit on the walking tour to see the multicolored houses and bold styles.
- Caminito: The most famous street in the neighborhood with brightly painted buildings, street art, and tango performers.
- La Bombonera: A soccer stadium for Boca Juniors, one of Argentina's most pouplar soccer clubs.
- Tango in the Streets: Steret performers might be spontaneously dancing in the streets.
- Riachuelo River: Views of the waterway
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Teatro Colón: Buenos Aires has the highest concentration of theaters in the world. This renowned opera house had its first performance on May 25, 1908, with a performance of Verdi's opera "Aïda." The inside can house over 2,400 people with excellent acoustics, ornate ceilings, decorated hallways, and furnishing. One should book a tour in advance online. |
Teatro Colón
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Restaurants
Argentina is known for their grilled steaks. What makes Argentine beef so great?
- Grass-fed cattle rather than grain-fed, as Argentina boasts vast expanses of fertile land
- Breeds: Several breeds in Argentina such as Hereford and Aberdeen Angus, are known for their high-quality and excellent marbling
- Natural Environment: Differing landscapes provide unique flavors
- Traditional Ranching: Free-roaming cattle with traditional ranching methods reduce stress and improve meat tenderness
- Dry-Aging: Parrillas (Argentine steakhouses) dry-age meet to enahnce flavor and tenderness
- Grilling Expertise: Open-flame grilling with wood or charcoal provides the perfect flavor and juiciness
- Simple Seasoning: Focus remains on the quality of the meat as salt is usually the main seasoning.
NOTE: Popular restaurants might only allow you to stay for 1.5 hours as other guests might be waiting.
Parrilla (Argentine Steakhouse)
Argentine
Lunch Spots
Pizza
Vegan
Ice Cream
Pastry Shop
Bars
- La Cabrera: While Don Julio has become more famous, this steakhouse is a local favorite that doesn't require months of reservations ahead of time with more affordable prices and steaks that are just as good.
- Don Julio: The most iconic steakhouse in Buenos Aires that require reservations months in advance or waiting in line to receive a late-night same-day reservation. Prices start at 60,000 ARS.
- La Carniceria: Contemporary steakhouse known for good smokey flavor.
- Sarkis: Armenian traditional steakhouse.
Argentine
- COWI: Contemporary Argentine with great cocktails and empanadas.
- Roux: A mix of French and Argentine food.
- Chila: Fine dining restaurant for authentic Argentine cuisine.
- Niño Gordo: Asian fusion with an Argentine twist.
- Harakiri de Una: Traditional Japanese restaurant.
- Julia Restaurante: Known for their Wagyu beef ramen. Try the tasting menu.
- Umi Omakase: Contemporary Japanese restaurant.
Lunch Spots
- Juan Pedro Caballero: Authentic Mexican tacos.
- Chori: Known for their choripán sandwiches.
- El Preferido: Try their milanesa and morcilla.
- Cacho Rotisería: Known for their incredible tortillas.
Pizza
- Siamo nel Forno: Authentic Italian pizzas certified by AVPN (the true Neapolitan Pizza Asociation)
- Pizzería Güerrín: American-style pizza spot.
Vegan
- MUDRÁ Plant-Based by Matthew Kenney: Vegan restaurant with delicious drinks and fusion cuisine.
- Gioia Cocina Botánica: Beautifully crafted vegan dishes that represent traditional Argentine dishes.
Ice Cream
- Cadore: Affordable ice cream shop with multiple flavors and usually a long line.
- Heladería Gruta: Hole-in-the-wall ice cream shop that is loved by locals.
Pastry Shop
- La Kitchen: Pastry shop known for sweet and savory fosforitos, chipas, and croissants.
- Salvaje Bakery: Delicious cappuccinos and coffee with a great brunch menu.
Bars
- Rey de Copas: Fun-flavored cocktails! Try "the Conejo" which has curry powder and burrito syrup.
- Backroom Bar: Cocktail bar with live jazz music.
- Tres Monos: Popular cocktail bar with good bar food.
- Nicky Harrison: A speakeasy that also serves sushi and cheesecake.
Other Resources
- Official Tourist Site
- Secrets of Buenos Aires - Insider's guide to Buenos Aires
