Updated January 2024.
Brazilian City of Handicrafts
João Pessoa is the capital of the Brazilian state of Paraíba, nicknamed Jampa. It is known for its magnificent beaches and natural pools a few miles from the coastline.
Historically, it is the third oldest Brazilian capital, founded in 1585 by Portuguese colonizers. Unlike other capitals built on the coast, the capital was built on the banks of the Sanhauá River , a tributary of the Paraíba River. Originally called the “Royal City of Nossa Senhora das Neves” before being renamed in 1588 to “Filipéia de Nossa Senhora das Neves”, in honor of King Philip II, who, at the time, held the thrones of Spain and Portugal. After being invaded by the Dutch in 1634, the city was then named Fredrikstad (City of Frederick), for Frederick Henry, Prince of Orange,, before being named “Paraíba do Norte” in 1654.
Its current name João Pessoa, which literally translates to “John Person” and it honors the former governor of Paraíba, João Pessoa Cavalcanti de Albuquerque, who was elected in 1928, and a candidate for vice president. Unfortunately, João Pessoa was assassinated in 1930, leading to the Brazilian Revolution of 1930 that led to a military coup that led to João Pessoa’s running mate, Vargas, to take the office of president.
Its nickname was given to the city by UNESCO in 2017 due to its unique production of cotton fabric, pottery, embroidery, and crochet.
Historically, it is the third oldest Brazilian capital, founded in 1585 by Portuguese colonizers. Unlike other capitals built on the coast, the capital was built on the banks of the Sanhauá River , a tributary of the Paraíba River. Originally called the “Royal City of Nossa Senhora das Neves” before being renamed in 1588 to “Filipéia de Nossa Senhora das Neves”, in honor of King Philip II, who, at the time, held the thrones of Spain and Portugal. After being invaded by the Dutch in 1634, the city was then named Fredrikstad (City of Frederick), for Frederick Henry, Prince of Orange,, before being named “Paraíba do Norte” in 1654.
Its current name João Pessoa, which literally translates to “John Person” and it honors the former governor of Paraíba, João Pessoa Cavalcanti de Albuquerque, who was elected in 1928, and a candidate for vice president. Unfortunately, João Pessoa was assassinated in 1930, leading to the Brazilian Revolution of 1930 that led to a military coup that led to João Pessoa’s running mate, Vargas, to take the office of president.
Its nickname was given to the city by UNESCO in 2017 due to its unique production of cotton fabric, pottery, embroidery, and crochet.
Overview
- 8:00 - 8:20 AM: Parque da Lagoa - city park
- 8:30 - 8:35 AM: Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel - Carmelite cathedral
- 8:40 - 8:55 AM: Igreja e Mosteiro de São Bento - first church built here
- 8:55 - 9:00 AM: Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora das Neves - church
- 9:00 - 10:00 AM: São Francisco Cultural Center - incredible church cultural center
- 10:10 - 10:20 AM: Centro Histórico - historic center
- Hotel Globo - art gallery space
- Church of São Frei Pedro Gonçalves - vibrant church
- Praça Antenor Navarro - plaza
- 10:40 - 11:45 PM: Parque Zoobotânico Arruda Câmara - zoobotanical garden
- 12:00 - 1:00 PM: Lunch
- 1:30 - 4:30 PM: Beach
- 5:00 - 5:30 PM: Praia do Jacaré - sunset
- 6:00 - 6:30 PM: Craft Markets
Click the star to add the map to your Google Maps! To view it, simply open Google Maps, navigate to the Menu, choose “Your Places,” click "Maps", and voila, the map should be added.
Tips
Getting Into the City
João Pessoa–Presidente Castro Pinto International Airport (JPA) is the closest airport. One can easily take an Uber or taxi from the airport into town.
Getting Around the City
Unfortunately, the bus system, while robust, can be difficult to navigate as a non-Brazilian. I would recommend either walking or taking Ubers around the city.
1-Day Plan
Note, that one can switch this plan and head to the beach or one of the natural pools in the morning, then explore historic João Pessoa.
8:00 - 8:20 AM: Parque da Lagoa
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A city park around a small lagoon with a children’s playground, jogging track, outdoor fitness equipment, art exhibit space, and small amusement park.
It is home to many beautiful beaches. On Friday nights, there are sunset programs starting at 5 PM and family-oriented programs over the weekends. |
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8:30 - 8:35 AM: Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel Built by the Carmelites who arrived around 1591 along with other missionaries, they built their own convent to evangelize the indigenous population. Due to delays, it wasn’t completed until the 18th century.
What is notable about this cathedral are the gold-covered carvings, helix columns, and gorgeous ceiling built in the Baroque-Rococo style. The center has a gigantic rose of golden petals and the sacristy has a jacaranda chest. Unfortunately, the hours are not made public, so there is a chance that it is closed. |
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8:40 - 8:55 AM: Igreja e Mosteiro de São Bento (Church and Monastery of St. Benedict) The first church was built in 1585 with the current one started in 1721 and completed in 1749 with further renovations over the centuries. The church is built in a simple Baroque style, unlike other Benedictine order churches. It was one of the first and main places of worship in João Pessoa.
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8:55 - 9:00 AM: Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora das Neves Translated to the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Snows, it was first built in 1586, the building was first made of mud, then rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries, before having its final time of rebuilding in 1881.
This was the first church built in João Pessoa. Inside, one can find sacred images and large masses. Surprisingly, this cathedral has a whole Instagram account dedicated to it. |
Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora das Neves
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9:00 - 10:00 AM: São Francisco Cultural Center (Closed on Mondays - R$15)
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One of the best places to visit in the historic area of João Pessoa.
All guests are provided with a guide, who will walk you through the Church of San Francisco and the Convent of Santo Antônio as well as three chapels. Built from 1589-1591 by the Franciscans as a small mud building, renovations for its current state were completed in 1779, it is the largest monument in the Baroque rococo style within Latin America. It is also the Sacred-School Museum of Paraíba. The tower is covered with tiles and massive vaults. The ceiling shows the scene of Glorification of the Franciscan Saints. Walls are covered with Portuguese tiles that tell the history of Joseph. The pulpit is a carving covered in gold, the only one in the entire world. The cultural center also includes a gallery of popular art, a museum of sacred art, an exhibit on prior popes, a restoration center and library, as well as musical performances by the group Suoni della Chiesa, on Tuesdays and Fridays, from 10 am to 12:30 pm, welcoming visitors with the sounds of baroque music. |
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10:10 - 10:20 AM: Centro Histórico While the whole area is considered the Historic Center, the main location is filled with rainbow-hued buildings that were built from the 17th to 18th centuries with Baroque, Rococo, Mannerist, and Art Nouveau styles.
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10:40 - 11:45 AM: Parque Zoobotânico Arruda Câmara (R$3 - Cash ONLY)
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A zoobotanical garden operating since 1980, that is referred to as Bica, because it serves as a natural source of drinking water. Its current name honors a Paraíban botanist, Dr. Manoel Arruda Câmara.
The park has a botanical garden where one can walk around through the dense forestry, while the other part houses a zoo with many cages for birds, reptiles, and mammals. Most notably, one can find marmosets and monkeys throughout the zoo. It also serves as an urban park, where one can follow the trail (or take a R$10 cart) to the end of the path where there is a pond and a few food stalls to relax and enjoy the day. |
12:00 PM - 1:00 PM: Lunch
1:30 - 4:30 PM: Beach
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All the beaches are quite nice with varying levels of crowdedness. Usually, the more north one goes, the less crowded they are. I'd recommend choosing a beach based on activities one wants to do.
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5:00 - 5:30 PM (half an hour before Sunset): Praia do Jacaré
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Praia do Jacaré, translated literally to Alligator Beach, is a beach along the Paraíba River with mangrove trees in the background. It’s not much of a swimming beach and there are no more alligators (eradicated in the 1970s), but the main attraction here happens at sunset.
Since the year 2001, without fail (save for COVID where he played on his apartment rooftop), Jurandy do Sax plays Ravel’s “Boléro” to herald the sunset in his small boat. |
One can stand on the pier of Praia de Jacaré to hear him play. Speakers are set-up around the pier to broadcast the sound. Recommend coming here half an hour before sunset to snag a front-row spot on the pier.
The pier is also littered with souvenir shops, snack stands, and a few restaurants.
The pier is also littered with souvenir shops, snack stands, and a few restaurants.
6:00 - 6:30 PM: Craft Markets
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There are plenty of souvenirs and goods in the stalls. While not all of them are made locally or even Brazilian, there are a plethora of options from textiles to woodwork, dolls, coins, and stones. Nearby are plenty of dining options, so even if one just peruses through them, one can enjoy the boardwalk along the beach.
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Feirinha de Artesanato de Tambaú
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Museums
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Cabo Branco
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Other Activities
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There are a lot of tour companies that offer boat rides. One can buy them online, but vendors also sell them right outside the beach. Note that these areas can be considered tourist traps because of the number of people who do them.
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