Updated September 2022

The City of Kings

The former capital of the Spanish Empire in South America, Lima represented the center of power and wealth. Even the coat of arms has three crowns representing the three kings of the nativity. It was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535. When he arrived, he chose the nickname as Lima's formal name, because the city was founded on January 6, the date of the feast of the Epiphany.

The city itself is structured off of a Roman plan, with 117 city blocks stemming out from Plaza de Armas. It is also the only world capital to be located along the Pacific Coast, and as such, there are plenty of boardwalks from where to watch the sunset.

Fun Fact: Back in the 1800s, their main export was guano—bat poop—which was mainly used for gunpowder, but the period of highest economic growth for Peru was called the Guano Era.

Overview

Central Lima
  • 8:00 - 9:00 AM: Plaza Mayor - Main square
    • ​Cathedral of Lima - beautiful cathedral
    • Palacio Arzobispal - Archbishop of Lima's home
    • Palacio de Gobierno - President's residence
    • Casa de Aliaga - Quincha mansion
  • 9:00 - 10:00 AM: Basilica y Convento de San Francisco - church with small catacombs
  • 10:00 - 10:15 AM: Parque de la Muralla - park with Pizarro statue
  • 10:15 - 10:30 AM: Convento de Santo Domingo - church
  • 10:30 - 11:30 AM: Additional Sights
    • Iglesia de la Merced - church
    • Palacio de Torre Tagle - 18th-century mansion
    • Iglesia de San Pedro - church
  • 11:30 AM - 12:30 PM: Barrio Chino - Chinatown for lunch
  • 12:30 - 1:00 PM: Plaza San Martin - plaza
  • 1:00 - 1:30 PM: Parque de la Exposición - garden and museum
Miraflores
  • 2:00 - 4:00 PM: Huacas - sacred shrines
    • ​​Huaca Huallamarca - shrine that can't be visited
    • Huaca Pucllana - shrine that can be visited.
  • 4:00 - 5:00 PM: Miraflores Clifftop - parks along the coast ​
  • 5:00 - 6:00 PM: Miraflores Central Parks - two parks
Barranco
  • 6:30 - 7:00 PM: Plaza de Armas Barranco - main area
    • ​Parroquia La Santisima Cruz - cathedral
    • La Puente de Los Suspiros (The Bridge of Sighs) - romantic bridge
    • Iglesia La Ermita - church
  • 7:00 - 7:30 PM: ​Bajada de Baños - viewpoint
  • 7:30 - 9:00 PM: Dinner
  • 9:00 - 2:00 AM: ​Peña - nightclubs
​Click the star to add the map to your Google Maps!​ To view it, simply open Google Maps, navigate to the Menu, choose “Your Places,” click "Maps", and voila, the map should be added.

From the Airport

As the capital of Peru, Lima's international airport, Jorge Chávez International Airport, is an easy place to start. To get into the city, there are a few options:
  • Airport Express (~$8/person): The official bus that runs hourly from 7 AM until midnight. It only goes to the San Isidro and Miraflores areas of Lima, but it is one of the cheapest options.
  • Official Taxis (​Taxi 365, Direct Taxi, Green Taxi) (~$16/taxi): These three taxi companies all have service desks within the Arrivals section and one can easily follow the signs to talk to a representative who will call the taxi and show you out to the driver.​
​TIP: Ubers are not allowed into the airport terminal, so it is recommended not to request one as they may be cancelled on you.

Other bus services are either Chorillos or Combis. While they run frequently, they don't necessarily have a fixed schedule and it may be difficult to get to where you're going since there are no fixed routes. They are also very crowded and are known for pickpocketers.

Around the City

The Metropolitano Bus Lima is an integrated public transport system within Lima that is a very efficient way to get between different neighborhoods. The buses actually have their own lane on the streets, which allows them to travel much faster; however, they can be VERY crowded.

The main route to take is called La Ruta Troncal (the trunk route), since it is the main bus that connects northern and southern parts of Lima. For travelers, that's mainly from Barranco through Miraflores up to Central Lima. There are a number of stations along the route (see the My Map Pink spots) to showcase where all the bus stations are along the way. It runs from 6 AM to 11 PM (although the time differs based on the line and day).

There are many lines that run through each station, and while there isn't a good map, one can better understand the routes through the Metropolitano website. Generally, it's a good idea to stick to Line C as it goes to all the stops; however, if you are planning on heading in other directions, feel free to ask some of the Metropolitan workers about what the best route might be as the buses can get a little complicated.

For tickets, there is a Metropolitano card, which can be purchased at any bus station and refilled accordingly. The card itself costs 5 Soles and each trip costs 3.9 Soles. However, for families or groups of people, only one card is needed between all members and the card just needs to be refilled accordingly. For instance, a family of 4 would need to pay 5 Soles for the card and then put 10 Soles on the card if they are only going one-way.

The following image depicts what the purchasing station looks like. It is entirely in Spanish and it does not provide change.
  • To buy a card, click on the top button (green box with 1) and insert Soles and a card will be deposited.
  • To refill a card, click on the second from the top (green box with 2), place your card in the bottom left and then insert additional Soles.

Central Lima

If you're not staying in Central/Historic Lima, I recommend taking the bus to the Jirón de la Unión Station along the C line and begin your trek from there.
8:00 - 9:00 AM: Plaza Mayor
Otherwise known as ​Plaza de Armas, this is where Lima was first founded. Other notable events have occurred here from the execution of those condemned Spanish Inquisition and the declaration of Peru’s independence in 1821. In 1651, a large bronze fountain was put in the center of the square, the plaza’s oldest feature.​
  • Cathedral of Lima (10 Soles to enter): Lima Cathedral that was rebuilt many times due to lofty building plans and earthquakes. One of the best works of Peruvian art are the choir chairs. Pizarro actually carried the first log for the original construction of the adobe and straw roof structure in 1535.
  • ​Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace): Home to the Archbishop of Lima. It is known for the Moorish-style carved balconies.
  • Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace): President’s residence which was inaugurated in 1938. The palace itself has a lot of Colonial influence and is based on a church in Seville, Spain. The most well-known room is the Salon Dorado (Golden Room) modeled after the Palace of Versaille’s Hall of Mirrors. It serves as a museum of religious art and treasure.
  • Casa de Aliaga: Quincha mansion built by one of Pizarro’s lieutenants, Jerónimo de Aliaga, back in 1535 atop an Incan shrine. The 66-room mansion showcases art and décor from 1500s to the 1700s and the building itself is considered the oldest in all of South America.
9:00 - 10:00 AM: Basilica y Convento de San Francisco (San Francisco Basilica & Convent)
The yellow and white Colonial building consists of a church, a convent, chapels, and catacombs and is considered one of the best examples of 17th-century Baroque architecture. After the original church was destroyed in the 1650 earthquake, earthquake-resistant quincha was used to construct the new church completed in 1672.
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It boasts Lima’s largest collection of blue tiles from Seville within the cloister, a mahogany machimbrado ceiling (wooden tiles fitted together without nails), a painting of the “Last Supper” with apostles eating guinea pigs and drinking from golden keros (Inca cups) in the dining room, and the catacombs with over 70,000 burials. There is also a religious museum with a series of the “Passion of Christ” paintings from the Flemish painter Peter-Paul Rubens.

Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed within the building and the only way to enter is on an hourly tour (offered in English and Spanish) for 15 Soles each.
10:00 - 10:15 AM: Parque de la Muralla
​Beside the Rimac River, the park contains the last of the 17th-century wall that protected the city from pirates. The park also has a statue of Francisco Pizarro.
10:15 - 10:30 AM: Convento de Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo church was granted to Dominican friar Vicente de Valverde, who travelled with Pizarro. In fact, Valvedere was sent to meet the Inca ruler Atahualpa in Cajamarca to try to convert the ruler to Christianity before the war, but he had failed. It is known for the carved cedar choir stalls, the dome, and the Retablo de las Reliquias, an alter with relics for three Dominican Peruviains who attained sainthood: Santa Rosa de Lima (Americas’ first saint who advocated for indigenous rights and worked to help Lima’s poor), San Martin de Porras, and San Juan masias. The first university in South America was founded here with a campus located downtown.
​10:30 - 11:00 AM: Iglesia Las Nazarenas
​The church was built in a neighborhood where many of the freed black slaves took the land from Angola and Pachacámac indigenous people. Built around a local slave’s painting of Christ on an adobe wall called El Señor de las Milagros (Lord of Miracles), it was the one wall to survive the 1655 earthquake as well as subsequent ones in 1687 and 1746, which is why more people started to come to the church for this “miracle”.

​Today, an oil replica and a mosiac copy is on the outside. Additionally, a copy of the image is paraded through the streets each October.
​11:00 - 11:30 AM: Additional Sights
  • Iglesia de la Merced: One of the most notable Catholic churches, it is built where the first Latin mass in Lima took place.
  • Palacio de Torre Tagle: Mansion maintained since the 1730s that boasts beautiful architecture. Originally, these mansions hid outlaws from authorities, as the authorities couldn't enter without written and stamped permission.
  • Iglesia de San Pedro: Church built by Jesuits in 1767, the colonial church holds religious art treasures from the Colonial and Republican periods.​
​11:30 AM - 12:30 PM: Barrio Chino (Chinatown)
Over 100,000 Chinese immigrants came to Peru from 1849 to 1874 to replace African slave labor Many of them moved to Lima and formed the Chinatown around Calle Capón. The Chinese restaurants are called chifas, which stems from "Eat Rice” in Cantonese. About 1.5 million people currently make up the Chinese ethnic community. The main street is Calle Capon with popular restaurants:
  • Chifa San Joy Lau: first Chifa created in 1920.
  • Chifa Wa Lok: another well-known Chifa.
The most famous Peruvian dish created from the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cooking is Lomo Saltado, which is sautéed with soy sauce, onions, and tomatoes in a skillet. Oftentimes, it is accompanied with fried potatoes and white rice. Another dish is called the Aeropuerto, which literally translated is Airport, but in Chifa cuisine, this is a chicken-based chaufa, or fried rice dish.
​12:30 PM - 1:00 PM: Plaza San Martin
Built to commemorate 100 years of independence, Plaza San Martin was open in 1921. General José de San Martin is shown on horseback in the center of the square, honoring the Argentinian liberator of Peru. Beneath the equine statue is a statue of Madre Patria, the symbolic mother of Peru. She should be wearing a headdress of flames, known as llama, but the sculptor put a Peruvian llama instead, since the word must’ve been lost in translation.
One can skip the Parque de la Exposición, as there's not a lot going on. One can walk through Paseo de los Héroes Navales (Naval Heroes Path) to head to the Estación Central to make their way down to Miraflores. ​
​1:00 - 1:30 PM: Parque de la Exposición
Parque de la Exposición, or Parque de la Cultura, houses the Museo de Arte and has a peaceful Japanese garden with a lake filled with paddle-boats. There are also monuments throughout the park to celebreate Peru’s 100 years of independence such as the Chinese fountain, Semismograph, Bizantino Pavilion, and the Morisco Pavillion. 
One can walk past the Estadio Nacional del Perú (National Football Stadium) before heading to the Estación Estadio Nacional to make their way down to Miraflores. 

Miraflores

It takes about an hour to travel from Central Lima to Miraflores. Take the Metropolitano from...
2:00 - 4:00 PM: Huacas (closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays)
In the Quechuan language, huaca ​refers to something revered or sacred, typically a monument. The two located in Lima both served as shrines, but only Huaca Pucllana is open for viewing through a tour (best to reserve online and pay in person). One can still walk to both and see them, but if one is running late, one should just straight head to Huaca Pucllana.
Huaca Huallamarca
Known as Pan de Azucar (the Sugar Loaf), this is a fully restored ancient adobe pyramid from AD 200 to 500. Huallamarca in Quechua means “place of residence of the Hualla people”. It is believed to be a ceremonial center for the religious elite, since the floors are well-preserved with few signs of wear.
Huaca Pucllana (15 Soles)
Nomadic fishers and farmers (the Lima) built camps in the Miraflores areas. The village expanded to become an adobe-brick administrative and ceremonial center dedicated to the moon and sea god. The center was abandoned and the Wari transformed it to a cemetary for the elite. It has taken 40+ years of excavation and there are still 25-30 years before it will be fully excavated.
  • Mannequins with ceramics were recreated to showcase the ritual offering of ceramics to the gods. Cohesion within the community required breaking jars and sacrificing children and women.
  • The Pyramid was where religious rites and ceremonies, including human sacrifices, took place.
  • Wari mummies: the dead were buried in a sitting position, wrapped in bales of fabric and tied with vegetable fiber rope. The oldest mummy discovered here was 1,300 years old.
  • ​Wari textiles and fabrics were composed of geometric and animal shapes.
Parque El Olivero
A park known for its olive groves that were brought over in the 1560s from Spain. Many of them are centuries old; however, there are also a lot of turtles throughout the park that are fun to watch. Around the area there is also the famous library, an art gallery, and a lagoon.
4:00 - 5:00 PM: Miraflores Clifftops
  • Parque Grau: On the north end, flower beds are in the shape of the Nazca lines. It is known for tango dancers on Sundays in the summer.
  • Parque Chino de Miraflores: Built to celebrate Peru's 200th anniversary of independence in 2021, this new part also celebrates 172 years of Chinese immigration to Peru and 50 years of diploamacy between the two countries. It was inspired by Chinese gardens with a winding path, pond, rocks, and Chinese guardian lions guarding the park. A Chinese pavilion also offers views of the Pacific ocean.
  • Parque El Faro: Also known as the Lighthouse Park, it is home to the La Marina lighthouse.
  • Parque del Amor: Open on February 14, 1993, the park is dedicated to the Peruvian tradition of courting in public gardens. The center of the park has a statue of El Beso (The Kiss) which shows a kissing couple. There is also a serpentine mosaic bench (resembling Gaudi’s Parc Güell in Barcelona) has names and notes of love.
  • ​Larcomar: A three-terraced shopping mall built in 2002 that is carved into the Miraflores cliffs.
One can continue walking along the coast into Barranco or one can head north to Miraflores Central Park (although the park doesn't have much outside of weekends). One can also take one of the nearby bus stations from the park to head into Barranco.
5:00 - 6:00 PM: Miraflores Central Park
Miraflores Central Park is composed of two parks: Parque 7 de Junio and Parque Kennedy. It is also known as the Cat Park, due to the number of cats who inhabit the park. In 1994, there was a mouse problem and people released their cats in the park to help resolve it. Ever since then, the cats have continued to populate the park.
Parque 7 de Junio: The park was named "June 7" in memory of the Peruvian soldiers who gave their live in the Morro de Arica in 1880. ​

Parque Kennedy: Popular park in Lima that has food vendors and local artists during the week, and on weekends there are craft fairs and people dancing in the amphitheater. It is named after Kennedy because there is a bust of former U.S. President, John F. Kennedy.

Barranco

Compared ot the rest of Lima, Barrancos is much more colorful, filled with bright and colorful street art. It is known as the "hippest" area within Lima, and at one point, it served as the summer resort for the wealthy and elite.
​6:30 - 7:00 PM: Plaza de Armas Barranco
One of the most beautiful squares within Lima surrounded by beautiful colonial buildings. At night, many times, there are performances, music, art, and fairs.
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  • ​​Parroquia La Santisima Cruz: Barranco’s main Catholic cathedral.

  • ​La Puente de Los Suspiros (The Bridge of Sighs): ​One of the most romantic places in Lima, this bridge provides inspiration to many artists. Legend has it that if you make a wish and hold your breath while crossing the 100-foot bridge, your wish will come true. Built in 1876, its original purpose was to connect either side of the gorge.
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  • ​​Iglesia La Ermita: Rustic church that was once a chapel used by fishermen and travelers. It was rebuilt after the Chilean army burned it down during the war, and while currently not in use, it is undergoing renovations.
​7:00 - 7:30 PM: ​Bajada de Baños
A walkway connects Barranco to the Pacific Ocean. Originally used by fisherman to access the beaches, but now it provides a beautiful path and viewpoint to catch the sunset if it's not a foggy day.
​7:30 - 9:00 PM: ​Dinner
Check out the restaurants section to find a place to eat around Lima (recommend staying around Barranco to see a ​peña afterwards, but it may make more sense to eat near where one decided to stay.
​9:00 PM - 2:00 AM: ​Peña
Barranco is also known for having some of the best peñas, which are night clubs for food, drink, dancing, and music. The music is either folklórico (folk music from the Andean highlands) or criollo (creole) music and is a great way to enjoy the night. There is at least one guitarist and one percussion player who strikes a cajón, a wooden box that makes rhythmic sounds. Usually, tables are pushed back against the walls to open up space for a dance floor. Most places don't start their jam sessions until 10 PM with clubs opening around 9 PM. They can last well into the night, so make sure to have enough energy to stay out that late. Some places may also require reservations, so it is important to plan in advance.

Folklórico
  • Don Porfirio: Only open on Friday evenings and is mainly inhabited by locals.
  • Peña La Oficina: An intimate place with mostly locals and musicians in attendance. 

Criollo
  • Peña Del Carajo: Only open on Saturday evenings
  • Dama Juana: Offers 90-minute shows starting at 8:30 PM with a buffet from 7:30 - 10 PM. There are also Sunday afternoon shows starting at 2:30 PM.

Mix

Museums

Central Lima
  • Museo Andrés del Castillo: Museum dedicated in memory of Andrés del Castillo, a mining engineering student who died tragically in 2006. There is a collection of crystallized minerals, ceramics, and collection of pre-Hispanic clothing and accessories.
  • Museo de Arte Italiano: Art museum filled with works from great Itlian masters such as Donatello, Michelangelo, and Botticelli. The building is beautiful with white Renaissance-style façade with the coats of arms of Italian cities.
  • Museo de Arte: Built in 1872 for the city’s industrial expo, it houses the city’s art museum with a lot of Peruvian art, Colonial Art Gallery, and portraits of wealthy 19th-century families.
  • Museo Nacional de la Cultura Peruana: Museum to conserve Peru’s ethnographic heritage. Its design was inspired by the iconography of the Tiahuanaco civilization which lived around Lake Titicaca.
  • Museo de la Inquisición: The location is the HQ of the Spanish Inquisition was based when they operated in South America. It contains the original tribunal room and the dungeons are replicas of the torture chambers.
Miraflores
  • Casa Ricardo Palma: Dedicated to Peruvian writer Ricardo Palma known for his historical anecdotes (tradicions) and he helped to rebuild Lima’s National Library
Barranco
  1. Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC): Recent museum opened in 2013 to bring to light more contemporary artists.
  • MATE Mario Testino Museum: Dedicated to Peru’s most famous photographer, Mario Testino.
  • ​Pedro de Osma Museum: Showcases colonial and early Peruvian art.

Restaurants

Given that Barranco is generally a nicer and safer area to stay, the recommendations I have are all in Barranco.
  • Isolina: Family-style and tavern-based restaurant serving criollo (creole) dishes. Named after Chef José del Castillo's mother, it has become quite beloved and considered one of the best restaurants in all of South America. Recommendations include papa rellena, stuffed potato with minced meat, criolla salsa, and Peruvian red pepper cream; the jalea de pejerreyes, a deep-fried Peruvian white fish; escabeche de bonito, bonito fish brined in vinegar, spices, and ají chili pepper; and costillar de cerdo a la chorrillana, crispy pork ribs with stir-fried onions, tomatoes, and boiled potatoes.
  • El Tio Mario: Restaurant known for its anticucho (cow heart kebobs) and picarones (Peruvian donuts).
  • El Muelle: Known for the freshest ceviche in the city, one can also order causa, a cold dish of mashed yellow potato packed with layers of filling. One should also try chicha morada here, a Peruvian drink made from purple corn, pineapple, and spices that make it taste like autumn.
  • Sóngoro Cosongo: Great place for aji de gallina, anticucho, and picarones.
  • Canta Rana: Peruvian cevicheria that has an Argentine-themed interior.
  • La Bodega Verde: A coffee shop known for its good vibes
  • Ayahuasca: 19th-century Berninzon Mansion that's transformed into a bar and has their own signature cocktail, the Ayahuasca Sour. 
  • Juanito de Barranco: Bar that resembles a NYC Jewish deli that is known for its pisco sour/chilcano.
  • El Cacaotal: Peruvian chocolate house.
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