Updated December 2023.
The Heroic
To secure a position in the Río de la Plata estuary, the Spanish established a fort in 1724 called San Felipe y Santiago de Montevideo, displacing the native nomadic Charrúa people. It aimed to defend against threats from the Portuguese and other European powers in the area.
Montevideo has many names. Theories believe it either stems from the Portuguese phrase “monte vide eu”, the Spanish phrase “monte veo”, or the Guarani language of “monte vidiu”, all of which mean “I see a mountain.” The mountain in question is the Cerro de Montevideo in the Bay of Montevideo.
As a port city, Montevideo served as a place for trade and commerce, growing over the years, but its other nickname of La Heroica or “The Heroic” resonates due to the city’s historical significance across sieges and battles.
The 1800s led to Uruguay fighting for independence from Spain starting with the famous Proclamation of 26 February 1811 after the Revolution of 1810. At the time, countries hadn’t been established, but the United Provinces of the Río de la Plata, which was comprised of most of the southeastern South American states. Montevideo has been sieged multiple times as Brazil and Argentina fought for territory and land rights in the 1820s. It wasn’t until 1830 was Uruguayan independence established, after the Cisplatine War between Brazil and Argentina ended in 1828 and the Paraguayan War. Even after independence, wrought with two civil wars and military dictatorships, Uruguay’s history has been fraught with conflict.
Today, it serves as the political and economic center of Uruguay, the highest ranking South American city for quality of living, and one of the safest capital cities in Latin America. It has incredible coastal views, freshwater and saltwater beaches, the longest Carnival celebration, and massive markets.
Montevideo has many names. Theories believe it either stems from the Portuguese phrase “monte vide eu”, the Spanish phrase “monte veo”, or the Guarani language of “monte vidiu”, all of which mean “I see a mountain.” The mountain in question is the Cerro de Montevideo in the Bay of Montevideo.
As a port city, Montevideo served as a place for trade and commerce, growing over the years, but its other nickname of La Heroica or “The Heroic” resonates due to the city’s historical significance across sieges and battles.
The 1800s led to Uruguay fighting for independence from Spain starting with the famous Proclamation of 26 February 1811 after the Revolution of 1810. At the time, countries hadn’t been established, but the United Provinces of the Río de la Plata, which was comprised of most of the southeastern South American states. Montevideo has been sieged multiple times as Brazil and Argentina fought for territory and land rights in the 1820s. It wasn’t until 1830 was Uruguayan independence established, after the Cisplatine War between Brazil and Argentina ended in 1828 and the Paraguayan War. Even after independence, wrought with two civil wars and military dictatorships, Uruguay’s history has been fraught with conflict.
Today, it serves as the political and economic center of Uruguay, the highest ranking South American city for quality of living, and one of the safest capital cities in Latin America. It has incredible coastal views, freshwater and saltwater beaches, the longest Carnival celebration, and massive markets.
Overview
- 9:00 - 10:00 AM: Plaza Independencia - main square
- Artigas Mausoleum - statue honoring national hero
- 10:00 - 11:00 AM: Palacio Salvo - tall tower and tango museum (head here first for tickets)
- 11:10 - 11:25 AM: Cabildo de Montevideo - free museum with historic artifacts
- 11:30 - 11:45 AM: Metropolitan Cathedral - cathedral
- 12:00 - 1:00 PM: Mercado del Puerto - food hall
- Walk along La Rambla, the world's longest continous sidewalk
- 2:00 - 3:00 PM: Parque Rodó - park
- Take Bus 185 or 186
- 3:30 - 4:30 PM: Museo Del Fútbol - soccer stadium and museum
- Take Bus 137 or 185
- 5:00 - 6:00 PM: Prado Park - botanical gardens and local park
- 7:00 - 8:00 PM: Fortaleza del Cerro - fortress and panoramic point (OPTIONAL)
- 9:00 - 10:00 PM: Dinner
- 10:00 - 11:00 PM: Milango - tango club
Click the star to add the map to your Google Maps! To view it, simply open Google Maps, navigate to the Menu, choose “Your Places,” click "Maps", and voila, the map should be added.
Tips
Getting Into the City
One has the option of getting to Montevideo by plane into Carrasco International Airport (MVD) or taking a ferry from Buenos Aires across the Rio de Plata (a wide river). Buquebus is the main operator, and one can easily book tickets between different cities. I highly recommend this option if one wants to see more of South America.
For a cheaper option that takes longer, there is Colonia Express, which heads to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay first, then hop on the bus to Montevideo. Another competitor is Seacat, although their website doesn't always work.
For a cheaper option that takes longer, there is Colonia Express, which heads to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay first, then hop on the bus to Montevideo. Another competitor is Seacat, although their website doesn't always work.
Getting To/From Airport
From the airport, there are two options:
- Uber or Taxi
- Taxi Aeropuerto Carrasco (UR$400): Airport shuttle that goes anywhere in Montevideo.
Getting Around the City
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STM BUS The only form of public transit in Montevideo is the bus; however, it is a robust system that runs from 5 AM to 11 PM every day. In order to ride the bus, even while waiting at a bus stop, one will need to still flag it down by putting an arm up. Google Maps can be used to determine where one wants to go. For times, the Moovit app is a good routing app (one will need to know the bus number) or use Como Ir. One can purchase tickets on the bus using cash (52 UYU).Don't worry about not having the exact amount, as the driver will provide change (although they don't prefer too large of a bill). When one buys a ticket, the driver will provide a paper receipt as sometimes conductors will hop on to check for proof of payment. At one's bus stop, one should press the button above the back door to signal to the driver that one needs to get off at the next stop. |
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There is also the STM transport card if one is riding the bus multiple times. It is a top-up card that one can tap when boarding a bus. It reduces the cost to 48 UYU per ride. They can be "bought" (for free) and topped up at Abitab stores. One needs to show proof of identification (passport) to receive one. |
TAXI
If one hails a taxi, one will need to pay with cash. Using the Cabify app, one can pay with card. Do not be dismayed when taxi drivers put the luggage in the passenger seat next to them. One should pay with small bills or ask if they accept large ones before riding.
RIDESHARE
Uber is a popular option for rideshare apps, and one does not need to tip their driver.
If one hails a taxi, one will need to pay with cash. Using the Cabify app, one can pay with card. Do not be dismayed when taxi drivers put the luggage in the passenger seat next to them. One should pay with small bills or ask if they accept large ones before riding.
RIDESHARE
Uber is a popular option for rideshare apps, and one does not need to tip their driver.
Water
Tap water is safe to drink in Montevideo as their filtration systems are up-to-date.
Language
Spanish is the main language spoken throughout Uruguay, and while there are more and more English-speakers in more touristy areas, having a basic knowledge of Spanish can help immensely.
Currency
The national currency are Uruguayan pesos (UR$); however, U.S. dollars are accepted in many tourist places.
On my travels, I never needed to have cash. Everything can be paid for by credit card, especially if one goes to an Abitab to get a STM card to ride the buses. The only instance one might need Uruguayan pesos is for a paid guided tour of the Solis Theater.
On my travels, I never needed to have cash. Everything can be paid for by credit card, especially if one goes to an Abitab to get a STM card to ride the buses. The only instance one might need Uruguayan pesos is for a paid guided tour of the Solis Theater.
1-Day Plan
9:00 - 10:00 AM: Plaza Independencia
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The main square in Montevideo is the heart of the city. One can see the remains of the city walls and town gate, Gateway of the Citadel (La Puerta de La Ciudadela), which serves as the entrance to Ciudad Vieja, the original Old Town. It is also where important gatherings occur, such as the annual March of Silence and Pride starting in 1996 and held on May 20 to commemorate the 197 Uruguayans that were detained and disappeared under Uruguay’s civic-military dictatorship from 1973-1985.
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Artigas Mausoleum: In the center of the square, an equestrian statue serves as a mausoleum for Uruguay’s national hero, General José Gervasio Artigas, who ardently fought to free Uruguay from the Spanish Crown in the 1800s. He never saw the success of his labor, as he was exiled to Paraguay, but his remains were shipped back to Uruguay and buried under the statue and are guarded at all times.
On Sunday mornings, the largest flea market, Feria Tristán Narvaja, starts here. Blocks and blocks of artisans and goods being sold.
10:00 - 11:00 AM: Palacio Salvo (Closed Sundays)
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A National Heritage Monument that was South America’s tallest tower from 1928-1935 and remains the tallest building in Uruguay. It has a blend of Art Deco, Renaissance, Gothic, and Neoclassical elements with the intent to convert into a hotel, but instead, the Salvo brothers changed it to office space and residential apartments. One can enter through a guided tour (leaves every hour) for an incredible rooftop view and end in the Tango Museum.
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Tango Museum: Tango developed in Argentina and Uruguay around the same time, but the 1917 tango La Cumparsita became the most famous tango created, and it was composed in a building that predated the Salvo Palace. The small museum provides great insight into the history and culture of tango.
Note that one can only visit the museum through the Palacio Salvo tour. |
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11:10 - 11:25 AM: Cabildo de Montevideo
Former government building holding historical city artifacts including the desk where the original Act of Independence was signed. There are rotating temporary exhibits showcasing Uruguayan culture.
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Act of independence and original desk
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11:30 - 11:45 AM: Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral
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Neoclassical cathedral replacing the small brick church in Montevideo. Pope Leo XIII declared it the Metropolitan Cathedral in 1897 and serves as the site of religious events, choir performances, and weddings. One should enter to see the stained-glass windows and the copper-colored altar. The church serves as a place of voting on election day.
It has many other names such as Catedral Matrix or the Iglesia de la Matriz. |
12:00 - 1:00 PM: Mercado del Puerto
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Translated literally to “Port Market”, it is more of a food hall than a market. Filled with restaurants and artisan shops, one can see street performers and try a traditional Uruguayan barbecue lunch. Café Roldós: Booth that had the birthplace of medio y medio, a wine cocktail. |
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Walk along La Rambla to Parque Jose Enrique Rodó and Playa Ramirez
La Rambla
A coastal promenade bordering the entire south coast of Montevideo. It is the world’s longest continuous sidewalk at 13.7 miles long. It starts in the Bay of Montevideo and goes eastward to Carrasco.
2:00 - 2:50 PM: Parque Rodó
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Known for its Sunday markets selling clothes and artisan crafts, the park also has two amusement areas dedicated to children and adults respectively. One can also rent pedal boats for 30-minute rides on the lake. The park is named after José Enrique Rodó, a famous Uruguayan essayist.
Nearby is Plaza Ramírez, a popular beach for volleyball. In total, Montevideo has 18 beaches with lifeguards from November through April. |
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One can walk 40 minutes (~2 miles) to the stadium.
3:30 - 4:30 PM: Museo Del Fútbol (UR$300) (Closed on Weekends)
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A museum dedicated to soccer and Uruguay’s pride in hosting the first world-cup since the Uruguyan team had won two “football” Olympics before the World Cup was created. It is located within the Estadio Centenario, the largest soccer stadium in Uruguay and can hold 60,000 spectators. It was built in 1930 for the first World Cup and where the national team still plays. The stadium is declared a Historic Monument of Worldwide Football by FIFA, the only stadium to hold this title.
Games run from February through November. One can buy tickets 2-3 days before matches at Abitab sites. |
Take Bus 185 or 186 to the Prado Park.
5:00 - 6:00 PM: Prado Park
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The park is the largest urban park in Montevideo in the beautiful Prado neighborhood with tree-lined streets massive mansions built in the 1900s. The park also boasts the Jardín Botánico de Montevideo filld with a plethora of flora and a beautiful rose garden, one can also see the beautiful sculptures throughout.
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Take Bus 137 or 185 for 30 minutes.
7:00 - 8:00 PM: Fortaleza del Cerro (OPTIONAL)
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Located on the highest hill in Montevideo, this historic fortress was built in 1809 to protect Montevideo from naval attacks. While it was never used, it is now a museum and offers panoramic views over Rio de la Plata. One can visit the 19th-century lighthouse and Military Museum.
Nearby is the Memorial de los Desaparecido, remembering those who were disappeared or murdered by Uruguay’s military dictatorship. |
9:00 - 10:00 PM: Dinner
LIke Argentina and Spain, days start and end later, so dinner usually doesn't begin until 9 PM with empty restaurants beforehand. Note that one might need to make a reservation if dining at this time.
10:00 - 11:00 PM: Milonga
A milonga is a tango club, where one can go to dance or watch tango. One of the most famous tango compositions is "La Cumparsita", a song written bu Uruguayan composer Gerardo Hernan Matos Rodríguez in his late teens and grew in popularity.
Popular destinations include the following:
Popular destinations include the following:
- Sala Camacuá: Formal venue for tango performances.
- Joventango: Tango teaching class.
- El Chamuyo Milonga: Night club with lots of dancing.
Museums
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- Museo de la Memoria: Insights into the 1975-1986 12-year civic-military dictatorship, honoring the Uruguayans who had disappeared (called Desaparecidos) and those unaccounted for.
- Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales: National Museum of Visual Arts is in Park Rodó. The permanent collection features 20th-century Uruguayan artists, while temporary exhibits showcase more contemporary artists.
- Museo del Gaucho and Currency (Closed as of 2023): In the former neo-Renaissance Herber, the museum is dedicated to “gauchos” (South American cowboys) with relationships with their horses and lifestyles, showing gear and clothing.
- Contemporary Art Space (EAC): New art space in the former Miguelete prison that had been functioning for 102 years, the oldest prison in Uruguay. It reopened in 2010 to serve as an art gallery and exhibition space with the original graffiti and bars maintained on the ground floor as a reminder of the space’s darker past.
- Museo del Cannabis (UR$200) (Open Friday through Sunday): Marijuana is legalized in Uruguay, and this small cannabis museum provides personal guides telling the history of marijuana growth and use. There is an upstairs growing room and botanical garden, but note that it opens at 4:20 PM.
- Museo Andes 1972 (Andes Museum): A museum dedicated to the story of the 1972 Uruguayan palne crash in the Andes mountains and the story of the 16 survivors.
Other Activities
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Solis Theater
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La Rambla Route
If one continues walking down La Rambla past Parque Rodó there are a few notable sights:
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- Faro de Punta Carretas (Punta Carretas Lighthouse): The lighthouse was built in 1876 to guide ships into the Banco Inglés and Buceo Port. One can climb the stairs for a beautiful view from the top or enjoy picturesque views of the ocean.
- Playa de los Pocitos: In one of the more popular residential neighborhoods, this is the most popular beach for locals. This neighborhood or "barrio" is more upscale with open-air restaurants with beautiful architecture.
- Letrero de Montevideo (Montevideo Letters): One can also stop to see the giant letter spelling of the city, which was placed here in 2012. While white originally, they are painted from time-to-time to represent different events, such as painted colors of the rainbow flag in 2015 to celebrate diversity.
- Sofitel Montevideo Carrasco Hotel: The historic hotel and casino is a beautiful building by one of the nicest beaches in Uruguay. It was first open in 1921, then closed in the late 1990s due to infrastructure problems. It has recently opened up again in 2013.
Restaurants
Uruguay’s cuisine is a mix of Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese dishes. They are famous for wood-fired barbecue dishes (asado), among many other foods.
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Besides Mercado del Puerto (which some consider to be a tourist trap), there are a few other markets to check out:
- Mercado Williman
- Mercado Ferrando
Food
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Entrees
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Chivito
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Desserts
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Drinks
- Wine: Uruguay is known for their wine, so if one has time, one should check out some wineries around the area after checking out the Montevideo Wine Experience. 50% of the country's wine is produced within 30 miles of Montevideo, so there are a lot of vineyards one can visit.
- Tannat: The most popular wine, a red with notes of licorice, espresso, and blackberries.
- Medio y medio (“Half and half”): A wine cocktail that mixes a dry white wine with a sweet sparkling wine.
- Mate: The traditional herbal drink served in a hollow calabash gourd that can easily be found on La Rambla. It is composed of yerba (loose caffeinated tea leaves), mate (the cup or gourd), bombilla (perforated spoon-like straw), and thermos (hot water bottle). People frequently share mate with strangers, so one should buy a kit at a grocery store if one wants to partake.
