The Land of the Unexpected

Yes, this is actually the nickname of Papua New Guinea, for it truly is such an unexpected place. From the multitiude of cultures, the range of terrains, the diversity of wildlife, and the place where one's food order may not appear, it is a place that one should go to without expectations!

PNG Facts

  • TROPICAL AND MOUNTAIN TERRAIN: Papua New Guinea is composed of the Eastern half of the second largest island in the world and is known for beautiful coral reefs, atolls, and islands. Although it is in the tropics, it is also known for the Highlands, where one can find snowy peaks and dense forests.
  • CORAL TRIANGLE: PNG's oceans are part of the Coral Triangle with incredibly biodiverse reefs.
  • COUNTRY WITH THE MOST LANGUAGES: Its official languages are English, Pidgin (Tok Pisin), and Motu, but there are over 840 different languages (not including dialects), since the tribes and groups never interacted with each other.
  • MOST SPECIES OF BIRDS OF PARADISE: Birdwatching is incredible. There are 23 bird of paradise species in the world, and 18 of them are located in PNG (June through August are the best months for birdwatching as this is the mating season for them). 
  • BIRTHPLACE OF SUGAR CANE: Over 9,000 years ago, they had already domesticated sugar cane, along with other crops such as bananas, taro, yams, and winged beans.
  • TRADE CENTER: Provided feathers to Sri Lankan princes, nutmeg to the Chinese, rubbing oil to the Indonesians from the Massoi tree, cloves to the Romans.

Travel Tips

  • Although the wet season is from December to March and the dry season is from May to October, rainfall varies across each of the regions and during the “wet” season, one can still travel around without being torrentially soaked.
  • While its tourism industry has not taken off, PNG has a lot to offer travelers. I will say that it can be quite an expensive place to visit, as it is recommended to stay in hotels/resorts and the only way to get around from one region to another is by plane. Unlike other countries, I’m offering places to stay to maximize one’s experience.

  • Things to Bring:
    • Sunscreen
    • Mosquito Repellant (and if one wants to be cautious, recommend also taking malaria pills)
    • Hydrocortizone or anti-itch cream
    • Credit Card (most places offer contactless payment, but many small vendors only accept kina)
    • Scuba Gear (PNG is one of the top destinations for scuba diving, but most places also offer gear)
SIM Cards
There are three different providers of SIM card within Papua Newe Guinea, but I recommend Digicel for the best coverage.
  • Digicel: Largest operator in PNG with the best coverage and fastest network throughout the entire country. There is a store right outside the International Arrivals of POM Airport. I paid ~PGK 100 for 8 GB of data for 30 days.
  • Bmobile/Vodafone: Second largest without 4G/LTE with set data pack structures. It doesn't have as much coverage
  • Telikom PNG: Most affordable plan with 4G/LTE coverage but only in populated areas like Port Moresby, Madang, and Kerema.

History

  • Historically, the name Papua is a Malay term referred to the frizziness of Melanesian hair. Then, due to racism, the “New Guinea” was added by a Spaniard who found the islands’ indigenous people looked like those found off the African Guinea coast.
  • In 1828, the Dutch took the Western part of New Guinea (today is part of Indonesia)
  • The British and Germans split Eastern New Guinea, with the Germans colonizing the north and the British the south.
  • Japanese forces occupied PNG during WWII and after the war, the two territories were combined and given to Australia.
  • PNG received its independence from Australia in 1975 after the establishment of a ministry 3 years prior.

Food

PNG is known for a wide range of foods given the varied climate and their proximity to the ocean.

Many of the indigenous used to hunt the marsupials, such as tree-kangaroos and wallabies, for sustenance, but due to efforts to preserve these endangered species, this practice is dying down.

Their local dish is called sago, a starchy dough-like food that serves as a staple; however, it is very rare to find this dish anywhere, save for at local villages.

A traditional style cooking is called mumu which is the process of putting parcels of food on hot rocks in a hole in the ground for several hours or overnight. They are mostly implemented in ceremonies, through which it creates a smokey baked flavor is infused into regional foods ((potato, yam, taro, chicken, pork, seafood) that are wrapped in banana or pandanus leaves with coconut milk inside to add caramelization.

Given the prevalence of coconuts, many dishes also contain coconut milk to form fish curries.
Vegetables
Starchy Vegetables
  • ​Pitpit: Species of sugarcane that has a chewy flavor when peeled and cooked.
  • Taro: Besides eating the root, leaves are also delicious.
  • Kaukau: Variety of PNG sweet potatoes. 

Fruit
  • Pineapple
  • Papaya (Pawpaw)
  • Rabaul Mango
  • Passionfruit​

​Kumu refers to any green, leafy vegetables:
  • Aupa: Most nutritious vegetable 
  • Aibika: High protein, eat young leaves
  • Kangkong: Hollow stems
  • Local Spinach: Slimy, moist texture

Drinks

Papua New Guinea isn't known for any signature cocktails, but as a tropical island, it is known for kulau, or young coconuts that are affordable and delicious (ask the restaurant to also cut it in half so you can eat the flesh).

PNG also has their own beer, called SP, and their own soda, Gold-Spot, which tastes very similar to sweet snow cone syrup water.


​Betel Nut

I'm dedicating a small section to discuss betel nut (Buai) which when chewed with lime (calcium carbonate) and "mustard" (daka), a fruit of the pepper vine, it creates a stimulant (gives people a "high") and stains one's teeth over time. You'll see remnants of betel nut as red stains on the ground, when people spit out the remnants/
Picture
Selling betel nut (top right), bags of lime (bottom left), daka (middle)

Language

As a very personable culture, one should always smile and greet locals. Even though they speak English, it is great to greet locals, “Tok Pidgin” is the main dialect, which has its base in English, but is influenced by German, Portuguese, Malay, Chinese, and other native tongues. Its roots stem from communication between slave traders and the islanders in the 1800s.

Some common phrases:
  • ​Hello – Hallo/Hai
  • Good Morning – Gupla Mouning (truncated to Mouning)
  • Good Afternoon – Abanoon
  • Goodbye – Lookim you behind
  • I – Me
  • I don’t know – Me no savvy
  • No – Nogat
  • Yes – Yesa
  • Sorry – Sori tru
  • Excuse me – Skius
  • Please – Plis
  • How are you? – Yu orait?
  • I’m fine – Mi orait tasol
  • Thank you – Tenklu tru
  • Have a good day – Kisim gutpela de
  • To/For/With – Lo (e.g. Gupla Mouning lo you)
  • Food – Kaikai
  • Young Coconut – Kulau​
Some rules to follow:
  • Adding “pela” or “pla” (quicker to say) to words make them adjectives. Good = "Gut + pla" (usually truncated to Gupla)
  • Adding “im” to words makes them verbs. See is "Look + im"

Dive Resorts

One of the best ways to see PNG is to head to the different resorts. Most of them have bundle deals where they pick you up from the airport, provide meals, and nearby experiences (especially incredible scuba diving!).

Water temperatures remain within 80 - 85°F (26 - 29 °C) and visibility of 60 - 120 feet (20 - 40 m).
Picture
​Here are the six recommended diving locations with resorts:
​
  • Milne Bay: Over 600 islands. Diving here put PNG on the map for divers worldwide. Contains WWII wrecks like Black Jack B-17 bomber, the Sponge Heaven dive site, with "muck diving" originated here (Dinah's Beach).  Today it's one of the top macro dive sites in the world.
    • Tawali: Isolated resort that is 1.5 hours by bus and boat from the Gurney Airport (Alotau) with a beautiful house reef. 

  • Tufi Fjords: Known for the tropical fjords, there's interesting fjord, reef, and wreck diving, B17 Bomber Black Jack. It's known for Mulloway Reef, with strong currents and pelagic fish.
    • ​​​Tufi Resort: Contains a tree-kangaroo sanctuary and great amenities. Right beside the Tufi Airport.

  • Kimbe Bay: Over 40 different sites that provide a variety of environments and is known for WWII wrecks of US Mitchel B25 Bomber, Lockheed Vega Ventura, and the aircraft Zero. A prominent site is the sea mount Bradford Shoals, made of hard corals and a sheer vertical drop.
    • Walindi Resort: Recommended resort. Note there are no mosquito nets or AC. Drive from the Hoskins Airport takes about 2 hours.
    • ​​Liamo Reef Resort: Known more for fishing trips with Baia Fishing Lodge. Drive from the Hoskins Airport takes about 1.5 hours.

  • Kavieng: Known for reef sharks and  and the Der Yang Wreck (Taiwanese fishing vessel from 1988)​​. Albatross Passage is a drift dive with eagle rays, reef sharks, tuna, jacks, barracuda, fan coral, black coral, sponges and a strong current.
    • Lissenung Island Resort: Picturesque island with a house reef and 3 dives a day with 20-minute boat ride from Kavieng airport.
    • Nusa Island Retreat: Known more for relaxing and unwinding, there are diving options here.

  • Rabaul and Duke of York Islands: Over 10 war history dives like the Japanese Mitsubishi F1M1 Naval Type 'O' observation seaplane.
  • Madang: Known for its coral "chimney" and reefs around an active volcano, with wrecks from WWII and an American Liberty Ship. The Planet Rock dive site has lots of hammerhead sharks, but the Magic Passage is known for its dives.
    • Madang Resort Hotel: Former Hotel Madang (oldest hotel in PNG) and it is one of the largest resorts on this list with 120 rooms, 4 swimming pools, 2 lagoons, 2 restaurants, and a tennis court. 15 minutes from the Madang Airport.
NOTE: If you are not scuba-diving certified, many of these resorts also offer PADI dive courses! This is a great way to become certified aound such astounding beauty. Check with the resort to see if you can become certified.

When to Dive?

Generally, PNG is warm enough that one can dive all year-round. But for ideal conditions, here's the following:
  • Around the Bismarck Sea, one should dive from May to November.
  • Around the Solomon and the Coral Sea, one should dive from December to April.
  • Milne Bay is best dived Setepmber through April with manta season in September.

Around PNG

Outside of diving, there are some other great places and things to do in different areas:

Near Dive Spots:
  • Tufi: Mt. Trafalgar and Mt. Britannia for hikes and insect hunting.

  • Milne Bay: Skull Caves where indigenous kept skulls of those they defeated in battle.
    • ​Fergusson Island: Known for hot springs and hikes
    • Goodenough Islands: Cave paintings and reefs.

  • East New Britain: Rabaul was the original capital of the area before it was destroyed in volcanic eruptions of Tavurvur and Vulcan in 1994.
    • Mt. Tavurvur hike to see bubbling hot springs.
    • Largest Japanese WWII Memorial in the Pacific.
    • Volavolo Village to Mt. Mother is a scenic 700 m hike.

  • ​West New Britain: Economy was built on palm oil.
    • Garu Hot River, requires a 4-wheel drive to reach, where one can swim in 106°F (40°C)​ water.

  • New Ireland: A lot of infrastructure was destroyed during the bombings during WWII after Japanese occupation.
    • From Kavieng, there is the Boluminski Bicycle Tour, a 5-day bike ride of 264 km along the Boluminski Highway across the entire island.
    • Laraibina River is a great place where one can feed eels.

  • ​Madang: Economy created from the Ramu Nickel Mine
    • ​Uligan Bay is known for surfing.
    • Balek Wildlife Sanctuary (PGK10): A garden setting filled with flowers, a cave, and a few animals.
    • Ohu Butterfly Habitat: Community conservation and research project for butterflies. Best times to visit are 7 - 10 AM.


Other Spots:
  • ​Manus Island (recommend staying at Seadler Bay Hotel): Undeveloped island known for sea kayaking and the emerald green snail.

  • ​​Sepik River: Take a cruise down this river to see the "Crocodile" people, known for cutting up their skin in rites of passage to resemble the back of a crocodile.

  • Highlands
    • Mt. Hagen: Third highest peak in PNG and oldest, continuously farmed area on earth with agricultural practices dating back 9,000 years.
      • Hagen Market on Saturdays.
    • Mt. Wilhem: The highest peak (4500 m) in PNG that takes 3-4 days to climb. Reach out to PNG Trekking Adventures to book.
    • Mt. Giluwe: The second highest peak in PNG that takes 4-5 days to climb. Reach out to Trans Niugini Tours to book.

  • ​Goroka: Home of coffee. Head to Kainantu for the pottery.

  • Trobriand Islands: “Islands of Love” are remote island life with hereditary chiefs that are passed down via the female bloodline. Known for wood carvings. It has quite an interesting history and culture with yams playing a traditional role in culture.

  • Bougainville: Remote and largely undeveloped island that gained its notoriety from the conflict over the Panguna Copper Mine, leading toa civil war between the mining company and the Bougainville Revolutionary Army (Recommend watching Ophir for better insight). ​One can take a ferry from Rabaul to Buka or fly into Buka airport.
    • Benua Cave on the Keriaka Plateau: World's largest cave at 4.5 million cubic meters with an 18-m high stalagmite.
    • Rotokas-Numa Track: Guided tours by Rotokas Ecotourism to get around.

Sing-sings and Festival Calendar

Sing-sing is a gathering of tribes or villages in Papua New Guinea to share in culture, dance, and music. They are usually once a year, but sometimes, there are a few 
June
  • Madang Festival (Madang) to celebrate the Queen’s Birthday weekend (yes, PNG is considered part of the Commonwealth.

July
  • National Mask and Warwagira Music Festival (Rabaul) brings together a variety of PNG masks over 4 days, along with Baining fire dancing (keep evil spirits at bay), drumming, singing, and fire-eating.

August
  • Hagen Show (Mt. Hagen). 2-day festival where 50,000+ people attend and is a competition between the tribes.
  • Sepik River Crocodile & Arts Festival (Sepik) : 3-day cultural celebration of the Sepik people and their connection to the crocoidl.e There are performances and canoe racing.
  • Enga Cultural Show (Enga): 3-day cultural celebration in which remote highlands gather to showcase ancient traditional culture with sand painting and Sili Mull dancers.
  • Reed Festival (Arawa, Bougainville): 3-day cultural festival that is bi-annually held to showcase culture through arts
  • Mona Festival (Buka, Bougainville): 3-day festival that is the annually held. It is the sister event to the Reed Festival and is referred to as the Canoe Festival, since monas are canoes.
 
September
  • Goroka Show (Goroka): 2-day cultural event in Highlands that is the longest running annual festival in PNG.
  • Hiri Moale Festival (Port Moresby): Celebrates Independence Day (Sep. 16) to reflect old stories and cultures centered around Ela Beach.
  • Frangipani Festival (Rabaul): Celebrates Independence Day (Sep. 16) to see Baining Fire Dance, sing-sings, and float parades.

October
  • Morobe Cultural Show (Lae): 2-day cultural show that’s one of the most famous ones in PNG. There are cultural aspects as well as exhibitions on agriculture, livestock, school parades, motorcycle stunts, and beauty pageants.

November
  • Kenu and Kundu Festival (Milne Bay): Canoe festival with over 600 tribes from surrounding islands.

Other Resources

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