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Salvador, Brazil

Picture above is from the Praça Tomé Da Souza, next to the Elevador Lacerda
Updated February 2024.

Capital of Happiness

The first capital of the Portuguese colony from 1594 – 1763 and the current capital fo Bahia state, the city was built on the shore of the Bay of All Saints. Today, it is known as the heart of the Afro-Brazilian community and hosts one of the most vibrant Carnaval celebration each year. Due to its culture, music, and celebrations, it received its nickname.
Tips
1-Day Plan
Museums
Other Activities
Carnaval
Restaurants

Overview

  • 8:30 - 8:50 AM: Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People - Rococo church
  • 9:00 - 9:30 AM: Church and Convent of San Francisco - Baroque Franscican church
  • 9:35 - 9:55 AM: Cathedral of Salvador - Baroque Jesuit church
  • 10:00 - 10:55 AM: Casa do Carnaval da Bahia - museum about Carnaval
  • 11:00 - 11:15 AM: Fallen Cros Monument - resistance symbol monument
  • 11:20 - 11:25 AM: Elevador Lacerda - elevator transit
  • 11:30 AM - 12:00 PM: Mercado Modelo - marketplace
  • 12:00 - 1:00 PM: Lunch
  • 1:30 - 2:30 PM: Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia - MAM - modern art museum
  • 3:00 - 3:30 PM: Igreja Santo António de Barra​ - church with waterfront views
  • 3:35 - 3:40 PM: Marco de Fundação da Cidade do Salvador - spot where Salvador was founded
  • 3:40 - 4:40 PM: Beaches​
    • Praia do Porto da Barra
    • Praia do Farol da Barra
  • 5:00 - 5:15 PM: Cristo da Barra - small statue of Christ
  • Sunset: Farol da Barra - lighthouse
  • 6:30 - 7:30 PM: Dinner
  • 7:30 - 11:00 PM: Rio Vermelho - hip neighborhood

​Click the star to add the map to your Google Maps!​ To view it, simply open Google Maps, navigate to the Menu, choose “Your Places,” click "Maps", and voila, the map should be added.
 

Tips

Getting Into the City
Picture
Bus from Airport to the Aeroporto Metro station



​The Salvador Bahia International Airport (SSA) is one of the only Brazilian airports with direct access to a metro. From the airport, one can take a bus that will bring you to the “Aeroporto” metro station. From here, one can easily take the metro into the city. Unfortunately, the main drawback of the metro is that there are a limited number of stops with not many in the city center.

Like other places in Brazil, Uber and taxis are more viable options if one’s lodging isn’t near a metro line.

​Getting Around the City
The easiest way to get around the city is by walking, but one can also take the bus or the metro to get around too.

​METRO
:
There are two lines (Line 1 (red) and Line 2 (blue)) that one can take to get around; however, these are mostly located in Greater Salvador. It is still an effective system, as it gets to the airport, but within the city, it’s not the best choice.
  • It operates from 5 AM – 12 AM and one can buy a card from the kiosk:
    • Integration Card: Rechargeable card that requires at least putting R$5 on it.
    • Unity Card: Costs R$3 and is valid for a single-trip.
Source of Map: CCR Metrô Bahia.
Ticket Kiosk
Integration Card
Kiosks
Inside of the metro
Metro stop tracker
Picture
Bike Itaú racks

​BUS

One can use the Salvador bus site to determine which bus lines one can use to get around:
RIDESHARE
Like other Brazilian cities, Uber runs rampant and one can easily get around using the rideshare app for rather affordable prices.

BIKE
There are many different Bike Itaú stations around the city, although it might be harder to bike in the interior of the city as there are many cobblestone roads and inclines.
 

1-Day Plan

Most of the activities one can do in Salvador will be centered around Pelourinho (the historic city center) and Barra (where the beaches are located).
Cruzeiro de São Francisco
Chafariz do Terreiro de Jesus
  • Centro Histórico de Salvador: Considered a “city within a city”, this is the historic center of Salvador. One can walk around the Pelourinho neighborhood (translated to “pillory” or whipping post, since this is where slaves were publicly flogged) to see some beautiful pastel-colored colonial houses built in the European style, cobblestone streets, and multiple churches.
  • FUN FACT: This area has appeared in may video clips such as Michael Jackson’s “They Don’t Care About Us”, Paul McCartney’s “Back in Brazil”, and Paul Simon’s “Obvious Child”.
8:30 - 8:50 AM: Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of the Black People (Closed Sundays - R$5)
Brazil’s slaves built their own church since they couldn’t worship at the other churches. Services mix Catholicsm and Candomblé, and they welcome tourists to observe. It is built in the Rococo style with some beautiful coloring.
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Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos (Source: arquitetandonanet.blogspot.com)
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Igreja e Convento de São Francisco


9:00 - 9:30 AM: Church and Convent of San Francisco
Famous Baroque church adorned with gold, silver, and gemstones that was built in 1587 when the Franscian Order arrived. It was destroyed during the Dutch invasion in the 1600s but was rebuilt and completed in the 1700s. It now serves as a colonial monument with beautiful ceiling art and is one of the Seven Wonders of Portuguese Origin in the World.




​9:35 - 9:55 AM
:
Cathedral of Salvador
Built on the site where the first church was built in the city, the Jesuits created a beautiful Baroque church filled with gold inside. There is a small fee to enter.
Picture
Cathedral of Salvador and Largo Terreiro de Jesus
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Entrance to Casa do Carnaval



​10:00 - 10:55 AM: Casa do Carnaval da Bahia (Closed Mondays, Free on Wednesdays - R$20)
​Given Carnaval’s prevalence in Salvador and known for their axé music, this museum provides history, artifacts, and context for the incredible celebration. 


​
​11:00 - 11:15 AM: Fallen Cross Monument
​A symbol of resistance against religious persecution and intolerance that commemorates the event on January 31, 1792 when a group of slaves and freed Afro-Brazilians revolted against the religious repression of the Portuguese colonial authorities. During the revolt, a large stone cross representing the oppression of the colonial regime was destroyed at this spot.
Picture
Fallen Cross Monument

​11:20 - 11:25 AM: Elevador Lacerda
​(R$0.15 - cash only)
​In 1873, this elevator was created to connect the upper and lower parts of the city in 30 seconds, providing breathtaking views of the Bay. It is the first urban elevator in the world.
11:30 AM - 12:00 PM: Mercado Modelo
  • Hundreds of stalls sell Bahian-produced products with produce, food, clothing, jewelry, and crafts. There are also restaurants and bars.
  • Nearby is the Salvador sign as well as a Monument to the Opening of the Ports, commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Opening of Brazilian Ports to Friendly Nations, a decree by prince regent Dom João VI in 1808.
12:00 - 1:00 PM: Lunch
One can eat at Mercado Modelo or try a restaurant around the area


​1:30 - 2:30 PM
:
Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia - MAM (Closed weekends)
​ Located in a large old, colonial manor house, it is the main space for contemporary art in the state. There are five exhibition rooms showcasing national and international artists, a school, and a sculpture garden located around the exterior. Each Saturday evening, there is a weekly Jam no MAM live concert outside. It was created by Lina Bo Bardi, who designed the São Paulo Museum of Art, to expose and encourage artists of northeastern Brazil. 
Picture
MAM
Picture
Entrance to the church


​
3:00 - 3:30 PM
: 
Igreja Santo António de Barra
The historic church was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and is one of the oldest churches in Salvador. It’s dedicated to Saint Anthony, the patron saint of lost items. Its ideal location near the ocean provides beautiful ocean views.



​3:35 - 3:40 PM: Marco de Fundação da Cidade do Salvador
The Pillar of the Foundation of the City of Salvador marks the spot where the city of Salvador was founded. It consists of a stone pillar topped with a cross to symbolize the Christian faith of the Portuguese colonizers.

​In the back is an azulejo, or Portuguese ceramic tile commemorating the event.

Picture
Marco de Fundação da Cidade do Salvador (Source: www.arquipelagos.pt)

​3:40 - 4:40 PM: Beaches
Praia do Porto da Barra
Praia do Farol da Barra

  • Praia do Porto da Barra: Considered Salvador’s best beach, despite being small and oftentimes crowded, it has some of the calmer waters and also offers a great view to watch the sunset.

  • Praia do Farol da Barra: A wide beach with gentle waves that serves as the heart of the celebrations of Carnaval and New Year’s Eve.
5:00 - 5:15 PM: Cristo da Barra
This statue overlooks the entrance to the Bay of All Saints. It is a smaller replica of the famous Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro. It was installed in 1920 as a testament to the strong religious faith of the Brazilian people. During Christian celebrations such as Easter and Corpus Christi, the statue is decorated and visited by pilgrims for blessings.

This place is also a great place to view the sunset.
HIll of Cristo da Barra
Cristo da Barra
View of Praia do Farol da Barra from Cristo da Barra
Sunset: Farol da Barra
View of the Farol da Barra from Praia do Porto da Barra
Entrance to the Praia do Porto da Barra

  • Each night, people gather to play music, relax, and appreciate each other. Since Salvador is a peninsula, one can see the sun set over the horizon, with crowds bursting into applause.
  • The lighthouse itself was built in 1698 to help ships enter the Bay of All Saints after a ship sank in the bay. One can climb the lighthouse for a magnificent view.
6:30 - 7:30 PM: Dinner
Take an Uber to RIo Vermelho as walking after dark can be dangerous and it's a far distance.
7:30 - 11:00 PM: Rio Vermehlo
The hip neighborhood of Salvador that’s known for its nightlife and clubs. It has cobblestone streets, beaches, art spaces, music venues, and plenty of restaurants.
 

Museums

  • Museu Geológico (Closed Mondays – Free): The Bahia Geological Museum tells the history of the Earth through stones, beautiful sculptures, and even some fossils.
  • Palace of Arts: Informally referred to as Salvador’s Rodin museum because it contains 4 of the sculptor’s pieces, this was the former home of Commander Bernardo Martins Catharino in the Brazilian Navy.
  • Museu Náutico da Bahia – Farol da Barra (R$15): Part of the lighthouse, one can visit the Santo Antônio fort and the Nautical Museum, which showcases Brazil’s history through ships.
  • Museu Afro-Brasiliero da UFBA: One of the only museums in Brazil dedicated to educating the public on African culture and history.
  • Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado: Dedicated to the famous Salvadorian author Jorge Amado, this is one of two places dedicated to him. The foundation exhibits his work.
  • Casa do Rio Vermelho Estúdio e Loft (Closed Mondays – R$20): The house where the famous author Jorge Amado and his wife, Zélia Gattai lived. It is filled with videos and collections from the couple.
  • Rio Branco Palace: Neoclassical palace and former government building built in 1549 that is one of Brazil’s oldest palaces. Today it houses memorabilia from the governors of Bahia state and one can take a tour to visit.
  • Cidade da Música da Bahia (Closed Mondays – R$20): This museum specializes in providing the history of Bahian music with audiovisual exhibits and interactive rooms.
 

Other Activities

  • Parque Zoobotânico Getúlio Vargas: The Salvador Zoo and Botanical Park that has over 1500 animals that focus mostly on species found in Brazil.
  • Basílica do Senhor do Bonfim: One of the most famous churches in the city, it represents the coexistence of the local religions regarding Catholicism and Candomblé. An annual festival called the Lavagem do Bonfim is celebrated when women wash the steps of the church. Wish ribbons, which Brazilians in the Bahia state tie on their bodies during the New Year, started at this church to hope for cures to issues and illnesses. These ribbons are tied on the fence around the church.
  • Feira de São Joaquim: Local market composed of narrow alleyways set in a grid that sell Brazilian fruits, live animals, spices, and dried foods.
  • Ponta do Humaitá: Another great place to watch the sunset, the historic Church and Monastery of Monte Serrat and the Farol of Monte Serrat are located here.
 

Carnaval

Salvador is a prime spot for local Brazilians to come enjoy celebrating Carnaval. The celebrations start the Thursday before Fat Tuesday, but there are also earlier celebrations in the two weekends before called Fuzuê and Furdunço. They even have some shows after Fat Tuesday.

The parade route is advertised online, but one can also find billboards near the routes showing more information.

Parade route around Pelourinho
Parade route around Barra
Social media providing information
Daytime trio eléctrico
Daytime trio eléctrico
Trio eléctrico
Trio eléctrico
Crowds at Carnaval
View overlooking the Barra parade route


To celebrate in Salvador, one has a few options:
  • Pipoca (Free): Sit or stand along the parade route and watch the trucks called trios eléctricos pass by. Singers will perform on top and one can see multiple performers in one night.
  • Bloco (R$200 - R$1400): One can buy a ticket for a specific performer and enter the roped off street section to dance along to your favorite artist in the safety of the trio’s circle. Note that one can come and go as one chooses, but the parade route lasts for 5 hours, which is a lot of dancing.
  • Camarote (R$500 - R$3000). These are indoor venues that offer a safer and less crowded space to celebrate. With an open bar serving cocktails, an open tap for unlimited beer, free drinks inside of fridges, unlimited food inside of a cafeteria (food options include temaki, pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs, meat plates), a viewing platform to see the trios on the street, and performers of their own, these spaces can be quite attractive to those seeking a place away from the constant jostling of the crowds.
Camarote stage area
Performers in the Camarote stage
Constant beer on tap
Picture
Mototaxi Services during Carnaval

​One can buy tickets online here or buy them off the street. Usually it's cheaper to buy them online.

Then, one needs to go pick-up their abadá, which is like a uniform one needs to wear to be identified in these areas. Abadás can be customized and tailored with stands around the street offering such services.

Getting around during Carnaval is quite tough since many of the roads are closed. Ubers are still a viable option outside of the secured zones, but one can also ride on the back of mototaxis (motorcycle taxis) to get around.
 

Restaurants

Bahian food is considered of the best-tasting Brazilian food due to its seafood base and the Afro-Brazilian influence. There are so many delicious options:
Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
  • Bar Cruz do Pascoal: Historic building transformed into a bistro with a beautiful view of the All Saints Bay from the backyard. Recommend trying the Pirão e Carne do Sol, the arrumadinho or Escondido.
  • Póro Restaurante & Bar: Artsy historic house with a rooftop terrace that provides beautiful views of the Bay. People recommend the bobo de camarão or the ribs.
  • Raiz Restauarante: Another prime location to watch the sunsets. Recommend the moqueca, polvo grelhado, and carne de sol dishes.
Pelourinho
  • Suco de Limão com Coco do Milton: A juice shop serving delicious lime juice with coconut (as the name of the place suggests). For R$5, one can enjoy this refreshing drink.
  • Oxente Bistrô: Fast-service restaurant for some cheap eats serving rice plates.
  • Bar and Restaurant Axego: A colonial building with Bahian specialties serving delicious moqueca de camarão.
  • Sorveteria e Lanchonete Le Glacier Laporte: French-inspired restaurant serving crêpes, açaí bowls, and ice cream.
  • A Cubana Sorvetes: With another location in Rio Vermelhjé, one can enjoy ice cream, juices, cakes, pies, and even burgers.
Rio Vermelhjé
  • Acarajé da Dinha: A restaurant located in a square with plenty of seating. Be careful when they ask if one wants spice, since it can be rather spicy.
  • Acarajé da Cira: Small stand known for serving traditional acarajé.
  • Parador Z1 Bar: A location by the beach that aims to remain traditional and bohemian simultaneously. It’s a fun bar to visit for drinks, but their food portions are on the smaller side.
  • Blue Beach Bar: Overlooking the beach, the restaurant offers snacks and drinks. DJs play music throughout the day, and they’ll hold one’s table, so people can also explore the beach.
  • Casa Castanho: Cafe that serves delicious breakfast and excellent espresso.
  • Crema Gelato Italiano – Sorveteria: Serves delicious gelato in a beautiful space for affordable prices.
  • A Cubana Sorvetes: This location only serves ice cream, but one can try all the different flavors.

Other Resources

  • Salvador Guidebook - an American's insights living in Salvador.

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